EXPLORE / Living ASEAN - Inspiring Tropical Lifestyle

Wat Arun Ratchawararam, a Must-See Thai Historical Site

By livingasean
August 22, 2017
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

The beauty and remarkable architecture of Wat Arun Ratchawararam has lasted through hundreds of years and the reigns of many Thai kings, as the temple has risen to become one of Thailand’s most prized historical sites and a must-see ASEAN tourist destination.

/// Thailand ///
Photography: Tanakitt Khum-on

Wat Arun Ratchawaram, or “Wat Jaeng,” as Thais sometimes call it, stands on the edge of the Chao Phraya opposite Wat Pho. This priceless historic gem was once the official temple of Thailand’s King Rama II. Built when Ayutthaya was the capital of the Kingdom, its first name, “Wat Makok,” was soon changed to “Wat Makok Nawk,” and since then has been called “Wat Jaeng,” “Wat Arun Ratchatharam,” and “Wat Arun Ratchawararam.”

The most memorable and noticeable feature of Wat Arun is the stupa, a gorgeous example of Khmer-style architecture rising 81.85 meters from its base, tallest of its kind in Bangkok, in fact tallest in the world. It’s now one of Thailand’s prime icons of tourism, radiating beauty day and night.

The Wat Arun stupa was first restored to its present splendor by King Rama V, better known as King Chulalongkorn. At that time the stuccoed brick structure was adorned with seashells, glazed tiles, and Benjarong porcelain of various colors laid in flower, leaf, and other patterns, with kinnarees (flying deities), giants, angels, and garudas added. The stupa has undergone continual preservation and restoration since then, most recently with a five-year facelift sponsored by the Department of Fine Arts begun in 2013 and completed in time for ASEAN tourists to come see the stupa’s fantastic designs and colors returned to their original glory, just as in antiquity.

Wat Arun has a lot of outstanding features to see besides the stupa. The ubosot (ordination hall) on the north side, for instance, was built in the time of Rama II and is famous for its amazing architecture and interior murals. And there’s the monument to Rama II on the retaining wall in front of the temple, built in 1996 by His Majesty Rama IX in celebration of the 50^th anniversary of his reign.

Getting there: Wat Arun stands between the Chao Phraya River and Arun Amarin Road, and can be reached by either car or boat.

Why Timor?

By livingasean
July 24, 2017
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

East Timor: charming newly independent Southeast Asian country, heaven for divers and a lot more. Follow along as we take a look!

Story & Pictures : Suwimon Sanguansat

Quiet, peaceful Timor beach, still in a fully natural state.

Timor-Este flags sold in the tais market for national day celebrations.

Woven cotton from different Timorese tribes.

Sharply sweet-tasting banana water is sold at almost every shop.

The Democratic Republic of Timor-Leste, known as “East Timor” or simply “Timor,” is a land of ponies, off the beaten track of all but a few tourists. Many won’t even be able to tell you what part of the world it’s in, since it’s only been around for fifteen years. Anyone familiar with Timor should recall battle scenes from the recent Indonesian occupation, and might wonder if there’s anything at all good left there. Nowadays, though, Timor is becoming ever better known for the beauty of its undersea world

Travel to Timor is both easy and difficult. It’s easy to travel by air from Singapore or Bali. The hard part is that with only two flights a week from Singapore you’ll have to overnight. Bali has daily flights out, but even then you’ll probably have to sleep over, plus take a chance on the airline not being up to safety standards. And delays are par for the course.

Soak in the atmosphere at Balibo Fortress as the sun disappears over the horizon.

Clear water, thick with sea anemones, heaven for the diving aficionado.

Undersea World

This trip we’ll go diving with Aquatica Dive Resort. SCUBA diving in the country is picking up like wildfire, let’s jump in! It’s too expensive to rent a boat, so we travel by van or pickup truck over difficult roads. Potholes here, construction there, hey, you’re already carsick! Now down to the beach for a dive. It’s unbelievable how perfectly beautiful the water is everywhere along here, even as we walk past a graveyard. The fact that Timor hasn’t yet been seriously developed for tourism means that only serious diving groups come here, so it’s truly heaven for divers. You like tiny fish? Enjoy the amazing variety of those. Whales and dolphins? Come at year’s end, that’s the blue whale migration season, and sometimes hundreds and thousands of dolphin schools are swimming along with them.

Our trip is six days chock full of diving, averaging three dives per day, really great fun. But Timor has a lot more to offer than just this. Take the city of Balibo, for instance, over near the Indonesian border.

Timor roadside vendors selling fish the way Thais sell garlands on the street.

Wonderfully refreshing atmosphere at our Balibo City resort.

Balibo 5 Museum, where you can see Australian national flag and the word “Australia” as written by the unfortunate journalists.

Cristo Rei mountaintop sculpture of Jesus, second only to Rio.

Balibo, city of companions, full of history

As advertised, the Balibo road is chaotic, steep, high, and full of curves, so we have to hire a local driver to take us by four-wheel drive vehicle, and it takes about three and a half hours to go about 120 kilometers. Balibo is in the cool, comfortable mountain air west of Timor. on one side are mountain ranges heaped one above another, and on the other our view reaches down to the ocean. The city is so small it takes hardly any time to explore on foot. The Balibo Fort Hotel, a converted fortress originally constructed when Timor-Leste was a Portuguese colony, is a great place to stay which became a worldwide point of interest in 1975. You can learn a lot about that time in Timorese history with a visit to the Balibo 5 Museum.

“Balibo 5” refers to five Australian journalists who had come to report on the Indonesian invasion of Timor. Their first televised reports of the violence were sent back to Australia, but all five journalists disappeared before there could be a second report. They had painted an Australian flag and the word “Australia” on their lodgings in hopes the Indonesian soldiers would leave them alone, but locals say they were simply killed to keep them quiet, and their videotapes destroyed. Indonesia has always denied this, so until this very day the families of the journalists have had no formal closure. However, their fate is commonly shared knowledge among the locals.

Tais cloth in Dili, saleslady chewing betel.

Resistance Museum, or Timor National Museum.

Dili, charming seaside capital

In Dili a confusion of cars, motorcycles, and microlet mini-buses fly busily back and forth. To a Westerner this feels scary, but the adventurous can make a nice bicycle tour around the city. A great cycling destination is Cristo Rei, a mountaintop statue of Jesus considered second in grandeur only to the one in Rio. The route winds alongside a beautiful, peaceful beach for a round trip of about 22 kilometers, and in early morning you’ll encounter people out running and cycling before work. Along the way you can stop in at the famous Letefoho coffee shop. Coffee is the single economic crop Timor is famous for, and coffee bean exports account for a good portion of the country’s income. A great late morning activity is visiting the local tais (woven cotton) and handicrafts market, followed by a visit to the Santa Cruz Cemetery, where Timorese are memorialized who were massacred by Indonesian soldiers during a mourning ceremony in 1991. Also worth visiting is the Timor National Museum, or “Resistance Museum,” where you can learn about this rarely visited little nation’s struggle for independence.

Tourists can eat local food prepared in amazing ways at the Agora Food Studio. Timor has to import most foodstuffs and ingredients, so local dishes are made from local vegetables and other products and use very little meat. And even surrounded by the sea on nearly every side, fishing is still local and has not been industrialized.

Beachside life

If you like beachside life, you’re guaranteed to fall in love with Timor. Just a ten-minute drive takes you to where you can swim out to see manatees. The beach here is actually a bit messy, since Timorese garbage management isn’t highly developed. In general, though, Timor presents a beautiful, mostly pristine natural environment, since to this point there’s been no serious tourist development. Living in Dili is like having ocean and beach for a front yard. Get outside and run, cycle, sit and chill, do work-related activities, or go diving, just for starters. The manatee live where the undersea landscape holds full, perfect beds of seaweed, so you can swim with manatees almost the whole year round. This is extremely rare, especially in the capital city of a country.

Two young women putting their cloth on display.

Risa, décor store owner: she makes each piece by hand.

Cool-looking cloth bag, makes an interesting souvenir.

Timor’s future

Some see Timor as having a “false economy,” meaning the cost of living can’t be accurately measured because there’s a large foreign population working in international assistance, a high rate of unemployment, very low average income, dependence on imports, and poor production of livestock and agricultural products. There are oil resources, in this the country has been taken advantage of by Australia and Indonesia. The fundamental infrastructure needed to support tourism isn’t yet there. Still, Timor has a lot of potential for development, probably nothing that will happen in leaps and bounds, but gradually, through long-term attention to resources and sustainability.

Santa Cruz Cemetery, where Timorese massacred by Indonesian soldiers are memorialized.

Travel Tips

Timor probably isn’t for everyone, but if you love adventure and just “going for it,” you’ll fall in love with this country.
On arrival in Dili you can obtain a visa for 30 dollars US.
US dollars are used here. Bring enough cash, because few shops accept credit cards. Also, don’t bring a lot of hundred dollar bills, because many places have no change.
This is a Christian country (Roman Catholic). If you want to attend services, you should dress well.
The local language is Tetun. In some places Timorese people still understand Portuguese and speak Indonesian (Bahasa Indonesia)
The cost of lodging in Dili averages150 dollars/night, and you should budget about 25 dollars/day for meals.

8 ASEAN Countries Fare Badly on Corruption Index

By livingasean
July 23, 2017
BUZZ,EXPLORE

Transparency International (TI) has published its Corruption Perceptions Index (CPI) for 2016. Among the very clean, Denmark and New Zealand shared first place scoring 90, followed by Finland, Sweden, and Switzerland at 89, 88, and 86, respectively.

///ASEAN///

Eight out of ten ASEAN member countries fared miserably indicating endemic corruption in the public sector. Cambodia was the region’s worst performer, while Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, the Philippines, Indonesia, and Malaysia each scored lower than 50 out of a hundred.

TI is a global civil society organization that has led the fight against corruption worldwide since 1996. It collaborates with 12 non-governmental institutions, including the World Economic Forum, the World Bank, and the Economist Intelligence Unit (EIU). High CPI scores reflect the general public’s perceptions of transparency in government, while low scores indicate the tangible impact of corruption that a country is facing.

As for the ASEAN region, Singapore scored the highest at 84 ranking number 8 in the world. Brunei made it big above the midpoint at 58, while the remaining eight ASEAN members didn’t make the cut. Malaysia almost made it scoring 49 on the Corruption Perceptions Index. Within the CLMV Group, Cambodia got the lowest score of 21, ranking number 156 out of 176 countries on the world chart.

Interestingly, Laos made an impressive 5-point gain to stand at 30 points, while Thailand’s score went down big time by 3 points to stand at 35, the same score as that of the Philippines. At 35, the two countries rank number 101 on the world chart.

At the very bottom of the index were North Korea scoring a despicable 8 points, Somalia 10, and South Sudan 11, while Libya, Sudan, and Yemen each scored 14.

TI defines corruption as the abuse of public power for private benefits. Obtained by expert assessments and opinion surveys, high CPI scores reflect transparency in government spending while low scores indicate high levels of ill-gotten gains and the tangible impact of corruption that citizens are facing.

Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corruption_Perceptions_Index

https://www.transparency.org/news/feature/corruption_perceptions_index_2016

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Hla Day: From Artisan Community to Craft Shop in Myanmar

By livingasean
July 14, 2017
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

The Hla Day Shop in Yangon is no ordinary crafts store. It sells works of skilled and authentic craftsmanship produced and marketed by a community of over 400 people working in an integrated, sustainable way with a product development team.

///Myanmar///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn

At the beginning of July Hla Day celebrated its first anniversary at the Pansodan Street location in Yangon; but in fact this group has been working since 2012 to support small community businesses in Myanmar in developing local products and bringing them to the international market, with an emphasis on quality and social sustainability. Hla Day was successful almost from the very start, its goods so well received that it was able to expand. With Ulla Kroeber as its leader, the team now works with communities in Yangon and many rural areas, giving recommendations to craftsmen on product types, materials, and production processes. Among other benefits, these efforts provide work and income for women who have contracted HIV.

The Hla Day Shop, on the upper floor of building no. 8, Pansodan Street

Ula Kroeber, Hla Day Team Leader (right)

Products include pillow covers, scarves, ornaments, cards, and dolls, and usable items from recycled materials. Besides being finely crafted work, a core goal is that products be contemporary and useful, and success in all this has resulted in project support from the AirAsia Foundation. “Hla day” in Burmese translates as “beautiful,” and the beauty here runs deep in the creation of true utility and value for crafts communities, buyers, and society as a whole while never forgetting to help the people at the back of the line.

Link: http://www.hladaymyanmar.org

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50 Years of Proof of the 100 Houses Project // When Traditional Khmer is Mixed with Modernism by Vann Molyvann

By livingasean
July 13, 2017
BUZZ,EXPLORE

Bringing the design concepts of Le Corbusier to Cambodia, the legendary architect Vann Molyvann completed his 100 Houses Project in 1967. 50 years on, what do we see there now?

/// Cambodia ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photography: Sitthisak Namkham

The original structures of some abandoned 100 Houses homes remain: raised floors, kitchen chimneys, etc.

Time and neglect leave their marks. Left: living room; right: bedroom

Before the Khmer Rouge period, Vann Molyvann was Cambodian architecture’s biggest star. After receiving a 1946 scholarship and studying in France he returned as Cambodia’s National Architect, combining modernist with traditional Cambodian design to produce such grand works as the Chaktomuk Conference Hall, Olympic National Sports Complex, Institute of Foreign Languages, and the “100 Houses Project,” designed as employee housing for The National Bank of Cambodia at Phnom Penh. “100 Houses” was started in 1965 and completed in 1967.

Typically a Project house is a concrete structure holding a large living room and bedroom, raised above the ground with a 7.2 meter span between support posts. Floor, door and window frames, and roof frame are of wood. The roof has a Cambodian-style slant, and for good ventilation, windows reach almost to the ceiling. Kitchen and bathroom are built separate from the main house.

Cambodian family house where Martin Aerne lives

After the Khmer Rouge takeover and the massive changes it brought, Vann Molyvann moved to Switzerland. Many of his creations such as this project were abandoned and overgrown, or randomly preempted by new occupants. Living ASEAN recently visited Tuk Thla district to find out how the village looked after all this time, and met Martin Aerne, Swiss architect and teacher, who now lives in one of the “100 Houses.”

Martin Aerne’s living room becomes an architectural office

Bathroom and kitchen section separate from main house

Corner of living room, leading into bedroom

Green space. Tall windows. Houses arranged to catch the breeze and not block each other’s views.

Martin Aerne tells us about coming to Cambodia, meeting Vann Molyvann, and discussing how to preserve works from the age of New Khmer Architecture. This prompted him to rent a space and open an architecture office on the upper floor of a Cambodian family home.

Martin notes that for privacy, homes in the Project are designed with alternating levels. Bedroom windows of one house aren’t open to view from the next. The porch of one house looks out on the garden of another. And even with no common garden, there’s green everywhere.

Martin Aerne, architect and architecture instructor in Phnom Penh

Not many of the old-style houses remain: new owners have demolished them, rebuilt, or added on willy-nilly with no thought to historical value. Two or three abandoned houses from the original project are fortunately still here, since even in their ramshackle state they’re a great aid for studying Vann Molyvann’s amazing work from the 50s and 60s, of which on a 1967 visit Singapore’s Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew said, “I hope, one day, my city will look like this.”

Most homes in the 100 Houses Project have been demolished, added onto, or rebuilt

Blueprint of original house: http://www.vannmolyvannproject.org

Link: http://www.vannmolyvannproject.org

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Most Inexpensive Michelin-starred Restaurant Opens Thailand Branch

By livingasean
June 23, 2017
BUZZ,EXPLORE

In a new challenge for the celebrated “hero of street food,” today Singapore’s Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, the cheapest restaurant in the world to achieve a starred Michelin rating, is opening a Thailand branch in the Asoke area of Bangkok.

/// Thailand / Singapore ///
Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photography: Sitthisak Namkham

Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle in Chinatown Food Complex

From the outside, Singapore’s Chinatown Food Complex doesn’t look like anything special; but in 2016 its own “Hawker Chan,” a food stall specializing in Singapore-style chicken rice, brought a lot of buzz to the gourmet world by receiving a Michelin star, immediately becoming the cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Already popular, the shop experienced such an increase in customer volume that chef/owner Chan Hon Meng decided to expand into a second branch. This is now tucked away on Smith Street, an alley across from the food center, under the name “Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle.” Branch number three quickly followed in the form of an air-conditioned restaurant on Teng Street, just outside the Chinatown Food Complex. Meals there are a bit more expensive: instead of 2 Singapore dollars per plate, chicken rice is priced at 3.8 dollars.

Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle on Smith street

After a lifetime of hard and conscientious work, chef/owner Chan Hong Meng himself is now known as “the hero of street food” in Singapore. His shop’s popularity has grown so much that customers have to wait in a long line that snakes all around the food center.

Hawker Chan in Bangkok / Photo: Samutcha Viraporn

The added branches helped to accommodate customer volume, but it wasn’t long at all before the Hawker Chan name went international. Now the Terminal 21 trade center in Thailand hosts the latest branch, an eatery with the slogan “World’s First Michelin-starred Street Food Stall” still featuring the same basic menu as the Singapore shops: chicken with rice or egg noodles, chicken with char siu, crispy pork, and pork ribs.

The Quality of Life Index in the ASEAN for 2017

By livingasean
April 27, 2017
BUZZ,EXPLORE

The Quality of Life Index measures which city provides the best opportunities for health, safety, and good living for the year ahead. Singapore no doubt ranks the highest in the ASEAN, while Jakarta and Bangkok take distant second and third places, respectively. Let’s see how cities across the Region fare in the bigger picture and what can be done to improve life quality.

/// ASEAN ///

Numbeo is the world’s largest database of user contributed data about cities and countries worldwide. Its latest survey and rating statistics showed Singapore topped the index as the country with the highest quality of life in the ASEAN Region, followed by Jakarta and Bangkok in distant second and third places, respectively. Manila fared badly at the bottom of the ranking whereas Laos, Myanmar and Brunei didn’t make the cut for lack of information in the database.

The QLI is a composite criterion used to rank cities. It looks into the costs of living and purchasing power, safety, affordability of housing, pollution, crime rates, health system quality and time spent on daily commutes. According to the survey, Singapore is the safest city in the ASEAN. It scores 83.26 on the safety index, 86.32 on the costs of living index. Jakarta takes a distant second place scoring 47.51 on the costs of living, and 46.90 on safety.

However, the people in Jakarta perform much better in the area of wellness scoring 62.99 on the health care index. Jakarta fares badly in terms of purchasing power scoring a low 35.97 compared with 92.91 in Singapore.

In parts of Bangkok, people are facing multiple health problems with the pollution index remaining high at 73.88. The city scores a high 81.47 on the health care index, a low 51.25 on the costs of living index, and a very low 43.12 on the purchasing power index. It fares badly at 49.81 on the traffic commute time index.

The Numbeo survey puts Manila at the bottom of the Quality of Life Index with a low 41.32 on the costs of living, 43.16 on purchasing power, and 39.65 on safety. The pollution index for Manila is very high at 92.01 while the traffic commute index is also high at 55.72.

Meanwhile in Europe, Vienna ranks the highest in the World Quality of Life Index. Numbeo statistics show Vienna scoring a whopping 193.79 out of 200 in the quality of life, which is very high. It also performs brilliantly in safety, health care, and the property price to income ratio index.

Link :https://www.numbeo.com/quality-of-life/

A Fascinating One-Day Trip to Tanjung Sepat

By livingasean
April 21, 2017
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

/ Tanjung Sepat, Malaysia /

/ Story & Photograph: Samutcha Viraporn /

A sleepy little town has emerged as one of the most visited destinations in Malaysia. Tanjung Sepat is located a good 100 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur. The drive along the two-lane road passing lots of quaint small towns is pleasant and enjoyable. Let’s go!

A self-guided sightseeing tour is a great way to spend a day in Tanjung Sepat. The small fishing town in Kuala Langat in Selangor is named after a type of fish called Sepat.

The cape town is perfect for a day trip getaway from the city. There is so much to see and do there. Most visitors do not stay since it is only an hour plus drive from the city center. If one does wish to stay a night, there are a handful of small motels available.

It is recommended that one starts the day there early to catch a popular eatery named YiKee Seafood Bak Kut Teh. In fact, the eatery starts their food service as early as 7.30 a.m. and usually runs out of food by 10 a.m. It’s not just a tourist haunt, but many locals also flock there for a piping hot clay pot of herbal soup filled to the brim with meat and seafood.

After breakfast, take a leisure stroll through the main morning market just to check what they offer.

Then it’s off to catch some fishing docks in action, or simply head over to the farms to walk off the heavy meal. If you’ve missed the fishing boats coming in, you can still head over to some of the shops where they process the fish into fish products.

Thong Hsing Trading is located nearby the seafood bak kut teh eatery in one of the small lanes.

The fish ball factory is run in the vicinity of the owner’s home. If you’re early enough, you can catch them making fish balls and other fish products from scratch. Processing machines separate the flesh of the fish from the bones. One can buy all sorts of fish products here from fish balls to fish cakes, stuff fish paste and more.

There is also another popular place to buy or catch more fish products. And that is at the Yek Loong Enterprise fish ball factory located in a small shop lot near the main market.

Though the machines have taken over some of the more tedious work, there are still lots of work to be done by hands only and that includes this lady stuffing fish paste onto thin bean curd sheets to make Fu Chuk.

Though there are lots of farms to visit such as dragon fruit farm, longan farm and more, we opted for some cool places such as the Ganofarm.

Ganofarm is a mushroom research company that cultivates varieties of mushrooms for sale. One can catch quite a few common mushrooms they farmed there, such as Ling Zhi, Oyster, Abalone, Monkey Head and more.

Behind Ganofarm, there is a lovely area with a bridge to visit! One can actually walk out to the sea and take some great photos there, too. It is a lovely day; hence the sky is gorgeous as it meets the horizon of the sea.

There used to be another more popular bridge named the “Lover’s Bridge,” but that was taken down since it had collapsed earlier last year.

Near the bridge site, there are quite a few seafood restaurants that many flock to till today for seafood. A popular gift shop named Qing Ren Qiao Souvenir Shop sells lots local snacks and knick knacks.

There’re quite a few smaller pop up stalls selling food and drinks as well as sweets. This bicycle sells fried fish balls and other fish and dried seafood products that are yummy too.

For lunch, there are a few restaurants in the Lover’s Bridge vicinity, such as Ocean Seafood, Lover Bridge Tanjung Sepat, and Ban Joo Hin Seafood. Savor home cooked seafood dishes with a beautiful sea view.

After lunch, head over to Arowana Malayan Food Industries to catch some chips action. The factory produces a great variety of fried tapioca chips, vegetables chips, and more. You can catch the whole end-to-end process and buy bags of freshly fried chips.

The fascinating small town boasts many favorite local joints, where one can catch the makings of paus (fresh steamed stuffed buns) and even local coffee processing. Business has really taken off for Hai Yew Heng Pau as many locals and tourists flock there for fluffy steamed buns filled with pork, vegetables, peanut, red bean, and more.

Go early to order for takeaways as they do run out by afternoon, especially on the weekends. There is another place a few minutes away, too, for steamed paus named Mr. Black Hand-Made Pau that’s just as popular. Be ready to queue on weekends.

Near Hai Yew Heng Pau, there is also a coffee shop, Kwo Zha B Coffee. One can catch coffee beans being roasted fresh and grounded for sale. These are local strong coffee with a kick. There is another coffee place also a few lanes away named Joo Fa Trading.

After that, head over to Kuan Wellness Ecopark, an eco-friendly center where every one of all ages can benefit from a visit. The center has a collection of old classic cars all lined up for viewing.

The main center building focuses on the cultivation of bird nest. One can catch the tedious process, where many workers remove feather and dirt from the precious bird nest before it’s dried and packed for sale. Bird nest is said to have some health as well as beauty benefits.

Kuan Wellness Ecopark has a small animal sanctuary for fishes, rabbits, birds and even peacocks. For a small fee, one can enter the sanctuary that is also set with a nice landscape view of a windmill.

End your day with a beautiful stroll along the beaches to catch the sunset, or dine at one of the restaurants set along the sea with some of the freshest catch of the day.

Tanjung Sepat is truly a fascinating small town that warrants a lovely getaway from the city.

A Day Trip Through Charoen Krung

By livingasean
February 22, 2017
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

There is more to Charoen Krung than iconic landmarks. Keep walking and you will discover richer cultural heritage beyond the famous tourist attractions. A day trip through the historic riverfront neighborhood is one way to find out. Let the journey begin.

/// Thailand ///

Story: Bundaree Deewong / Photo: Rithirong Chanthongsuk, Bundaree Deewong, Peerapol Taiyaithieng

The historic neighborhood of Charoen Krung has attracted many tourists and locals looking for a glimpse of old-world Bangkok. Originally called New Road, the avenue and namesake pretty much follows the path of the Chao Phraya River. Rich in historical and cultural heritage, it’s a chic place to chill out if you have time on your hands.

The area is gradually transforming into a “creative district,” thanks to active collaboration between the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) and Thai Health, a wellness promotion organization. The initiative is aimed at promoting healthy behaviors for a better lifestyle and eventually mature to become a torchbearer for other districts to follow. Designed by Shma Soen, the project master plan recently won a highly commended award at the World Architecture Festival 2016 in Berlin.

Living ASEAN invites you on a journey for pleasure to discover beautiful places and come back the same day. Let’s get started at:

09.00: The journey begins on the hour at Taksin Bridge BTS Station. The venue is chosen for the start because it is easy to get to. You can come here either by the Bangkok Transit System or by boat services on the Chao Phraya.

On exiting the BTS station at Taksin Bridge or a nearby riverboat pier, take your time to admire Wall Art Exhibitions. Beautiful works by international artists have turned this neighborhood into a landmark ideal for photo shoots.

The first attraction that you shouldn’t miss is Chiew Eng Buai, a beautiful Chinese shrine located a stone’s throw away from the BTS station at Taksin. The historic building was erected in memories of Chinese traders arriving by sailing ships but later killed due to a misunderstanding some 150 years ago. The Chinese architectural masterpiece is bedecked with beautifully patterned tiles, religious images, and dragon statuary. You are most welcome to drop in and pay respects.

From the shrine, take a sidetrack next to the Shangri-La Hotel and you come to Charoen Krung Soi 50. The minor path is home to a Vintage Loft-style hostel named Glur Hotel Bangkok. It is popular among foreign tourists and backpackers looking for a decent place that won’t cost them an arm and a leg.

From the hostel heading north, you are back on the main avenue of Charoen Krung. The famous Bang Rak Market is located between Choroen Krung Soi 46 and 42. It’s a slice of paradise for shoppers and great experience for people who love to eat. The main drag is lined with old row houses showcasing the architectural style of old-world Bangkok.

Unique Heritage Buildings Evokes Memories of KL’s Beautiful Past

By livingasean
December 29, 2016
EXPLORE,JOURNEY

/ Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia /

/ Story & Photograph: Samutcha Viraporn /

Charming colonial buildings nestled amidst Kuala Lumpur’s sleek, glittering towers are beautiful reminders of the former mining town’s colorful past. It all began from where the two rivers, Sungai Klang and Sungai Gombak, met. A confluence of ideas gave rise to ten awe-inspiring masterpieces.

Each heritage building has its unique story to tell. Spare some time to catch them up close and be transported back to the good old days of colonial Kuala Lumpur. Let’s pay them a visit one at a time.

– Sultan Abdul Samad Building –

Built to house the British administration in 1897, the Sultan Abdul Samad features Moorish arches and Mughal-inspired onion-shaped copper domes. It’s a far cry from architect A.C. Norman’s original idea: to leave behind a classic British masterpiece.

Following state engineer Charles Edwin Spooner’s suggestion to construct something more in tune with the local culture and religion, the domes and arches became a beautiful contrast to the quintessentially British 41-meter clock tower.

– City Theater –

Indian and Arabic architectural influences are just as evident on this former City Hall, with its cream-colored arches and the majestic dome gracing the front porch.

Designed by architect A.B. Hubback, the building was finally completed in 1904. As the local Malays started reclaiming their administrative rights, the building began losing its initial purpose and was eventually converted into one of the finest theaters.

– High Court Building –

Located just next door to the City Theater is the former High Court. You’ll instantly notice the architecture of the two buildings are similar yet unmistakably distinctive in their own way.

Function clearly defines form; the High Court was where justice was served and this serious, sombre purpose was reflected through its more masculine features and the foreboding double-pillared corridors. It’s a completely different feel from the City Theater’s more welcoming, feminine features, like the frilly silhouettes in its arches.

– Government Printing Office –

Take note of the sweeping long windows. Step indoors and you’ll notice a lack of obstructing pillars. This intentional design is crucial for its former purpose in 1899, serving as the government printing office.

As this was at a time before electricity was available, the printers needed all the natural light they could get to assemble each page of the newspapers. Besides news from back home in Britain, the printers went on to produce popular publications at the time like the Selangor Journal.

– Chartered Bank Building –

Also designed by A.C. Norman, this building was first used to host the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, due to its close proximity to the police headquarters (where Bukit Aman currently is). Incorporating a similarly Mughal style, its horseshoe arches and scalloped windows are perfectly complemented by the four roof-top domes, made from Sarawakian timber.

KL’s tendency to flood resulted in one of the most peculiar stories in the city’s history, where in 1926 the drenched millions of dollars in the vault had to be spread on the opposite field to dry in the sun.

– Royal Selangor Club –

There are two buildings in the city that followed a wholly British design, in honor of A.C. Norman’s initial intention with the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, The Royal Selangor Club is one of them. The clubhouse employs a classic Tudor style, defined by its signature black and white façade.

Due to flooding problems, the clubhouse was initially built on stilts. Today, it remains one of the most prestigious clubs in the country, serving as a socializing spot for the crème de la crème of Malaysia.

– St. Mary’s Cathedral, Kuala Lumpur –

This Gothic church, with its tall, sloping roofs and narrow, stained glass windows, is the other British-influenced building in the city designed by A.C. Norman. History buffs may notice that the stained glass seen in the church now do not have the distinctive style of those made in 1894, when the church was built.

The originals were removed in the 1940s when the Japanese waged war against the town and the British feared the precious, intricate glasses would get damaged. The ones seen today were installed much later after the war, and until today nobody knows where the originals are kept hidden.

– Central Market –

Built in 1888, the former wet market was the main shopping spot for the town’s dwellers and tin miners. When the Art Deco style started gaining popularity in the 1930s, the market received a makeover reflecting the current trend, with its stepped arch and square motifs on the wall. This classic vintage style continues to grace its cheery turquoise façade until today.

– OCBC Building –

Located in what used to be the bustling Old Market Square of Kuala Lumpur, the former headquarters of OCBC Bank is designed complete with quintessential Art Deco features from its narrows windows to its flagpole. Completed in 1938, the building’s claim to fame was its innovative move to include a basement parking area for bicycles, which until then were obtrusively parked on the pavement.

– Sin Seng Nam Building –

Nicknamed “The Vatican”, this historic restaurant was started in 1928 by Chinese immigrants. Serving wholesome Hainanese dishes and British classics, the restaurant became a popular dining choice for all walks of life during the time, from civil servants to lawyers.

Despite their diverse history and purpose, these heritage buildings stood the test of time and continue to grace the landscapes of Kuala Lumpur with their old-school charm.

There’s a lot more to Kuala Lumpur’s history just waiting to be discovered; if you’re keen on spending a morning listening to intimate stories about the city’s colorful past – from the fainting women at St. Mary’s Cathedral to the infamous murder scandal – check out the KL Heritage Walk! The free guided tour is held every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday morning. For more information, click here.

Link: http://www.malaysiaheritage.net/