Blog : JOURNEY

Wat Arun Ratchawararam, a Must-See Thai Historical Site

Wat Arun Ratchawararam, a Must-See Thai Historical Site

The beauty and remarkable architecture of Wat Arun Ratchawararam has lasted through hundreds of years and the reigns of many Thai kings, as the temple has risen to become one of Thailand’s most prized historical sites and a must-see ASEAN tourist destination.

/// Thailand ///
Photography: Tanakitt Khum-on

Wat Arun Ratchawaram, or “Wat Jaeng,” as Thais sometimes call it, stands on the edge of the Chao Phraya opposite Wat Pho. This priceless historic gem was once the official temple of Thailand’s King Rama II. Built when Ayutthaya was the capital of the Kingdom, its first name, “Wat Makok,” was soon changed to “Wat Makok Nawk,” and since then has been called “Wat Jaeng,” “Wat Arun Ratchatharam,” and “Wat Arun Ratchawararam.”

The most memorable and noticeable feature of Wat Arun is the stupa, a gorgeous example of Khmer-style architecture rising 81.85 meters from its base, tallest of its kind in Bangkok, in fact tallest in the world. It’s now one of Thailand’s prime icons of tourism, radiating beauty day and night.

The Wat Arun stupa was first restored to its present splendor by King Rama V, better known as King Chulalongkorn. At that time the stuccoed brick structure was adorned with seashells, glazed tiles, and Benjarong porcelain of various colors laid in flower, leaf, and other patterns, with kinnarees (flying deities), giants, angels, and garudas added. The stupa has undergone continual preservation and restoration since then, most recently with a five-year facelift sponsored by the Department of Fine Arts begun in 2013 and completed in time for ASEAN tourists to come see the stupa’s fantastic designs and colors returned to their original glory, just as in antiquity.

Wat Arun has a lot of outstanding features to see besides the stupa. The ubosot (ordination hall) on the north side, for instance, was built in the time of Rama II and is famous for its amazing architecture and interior murals. And there’s the monument to Rama II on the retaining wall in front of the temple, built in 1996 by His Majesty Rama IX in celebration of the 50th anniversary of his reign.

Getting there: Wat Arun stands between the Chao Phraya River and Arun Amarin Road, and can be reached by either car or boat.

 

 

 

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Why Timor?

Why Timor?

  East Timor: charming newly independent Southeast Asian country, heaven for divers and a lot more. Follow along as we take a look!

Story & Pictures : Suwimon Sanguansat

Quiet, peaceful Timor beach, still in a fully natural state.
Timor-Este flags sold in the tais market for national day celebrations.
Woven cotton from different Timorese tribes.
Sharply sweet-tasting banana water is sold at almost every shop.
Some Local Food.

The Democratic Republic of Timor-Leste, known as “East Timor” or simply “Timor,” is a land of ponies, off the beaten track of all but a few tourists. Many won’t even be able to tell you what part of the world it’s in, since it’s only been around for fifteen years. Anyone familiar with Timor should recall battle scenes from the recent Indonesian occupation, and might wonder if there’s anything at all good left there. Nowadays, though, Timor is becoming ever better known for the beauty of its undersea world

Travel to Timor is both easy and difficult. It’s easy to travel by air from Singapore or Bali. The hard part is that with only two flights a week from Singapore you’ll have to overnight. Bali has daily flights out, but even then you’ll probably have to sleep over, plus take a chance on the airline not being up to safety standards. And delays are par for the course.

Soak in the atmosphere at Balibo Fortress as the sun disappears over the horizon.
Sitting and chilling by the beach.
Clear water, thick with sea anemones, heaven for the diving aficionado.

Undersea World

This trip we’ll go diving with Aquatica Dive Resort. SCUBA diving in the country is picking up like wildfire, let’s jump in! It’s too expensive to rent a boat, so we travel by van or pickup truck over difficult roads. Potholes here, construction there, hey, you’re already carsick! Now down to the beach for a dive. It’s unbelievable how perfectly beautiful the water is everywhere along here, even as we walk past a graveyard. The fact that Timor hasn’t yet been seriously developed for tourism means that only serious diving groups come here, so it’s truly heaven for divers. You like tiny fish? Enjoy the amazing variety of those. Whales and dolphins? Come at year’s end, that’s the blue whale migration season, and sometimes hundreds and thousands of dolphin schools are swimming along with them.

Our trip is six days chock full of diving, averaging three dives per day, really great fun. But Timor has a lot more to offer than just this. Take the city of Balibo, for instance, over near the Indonesian border.


 

Timor roadside vendors selling fish the way Thais sell garlands on the street.
Wonderfully refreshing atmosphere at our Balibo City resort.
Resort dining area.
Balibo 5 Museum, where you can see Australian national flag and the word “Australia” as written by the unfortunate journalists.
Cristo Rei mountaintop sculpture of Jesus, second only to Rio.

Balibo, city of companions, full of history

As advertised, the Balibo road is chaotic, steep, high, and full of curves, so we have to hire a local driver to take us by four-wheel drive vehicle, and it takes about three and a half hours to go about 120 kilometers. Balibo is in the cool, comfortable mountain air west of Timor. on one side are mountain ranges heaped one above another, and on the other our view reaches down to the ocean. The city is so small it takes hardly any time to explore on foot. The Balibo Fort Hotel, a converted fortress originally constructed when Timor-Leste was a Portuguese colony, is a great place to stay which became a worldwide point of interest in 1975. You can learn a lot about that time in Timorese history with a visit to the Balibo 5 Museum.

“Balibo 5” refers to five Australian journalists who had come to report on the Indonesian invasion of Timor. Their first televised reports of the violence were sent back to Australia, but all five journalists disappeared before there could be a second report. They had painted an Australian flag and the word “Australia” on their lodgings in hopes the Indonesian soldiers would leave them alone, but locals say they were simply killed to keep them quiet, and their videotapes destroyed. Indonesia has always denied this, so until this very day the families of the journalists have had no formal closure. However, their fate is commonly shared knowledge among the locals.


 

Tais cloth in Dili, saleslady chewing betel.
Resistance Museum, or Timor National Museum.
Restaurant in Dili.
Another food dish.

Dili, charming seaside capital

In Dili a confusion of cars, motorcycles, and microlet mini-buses fly busily back and forth. To a Westerner this feels scary, but the adventurous can make a nice bicycle tour around the city. A great cycling destination is Cristo Rei, a mountaintop statue of Jesus considered second in grandeur only to the one in Rio. The route winds alongside a beautiful, peaceful beach for a round trip of about 22 kilometers, and in early morning you’ll encounter people out running and cycling before work. Along the way you can stop in at the famous Letefoho coffee shop. Coffee is the single economic crop Timor is famous for, and coffee bean exports account for a good portion of the country’s income. A great late morning activity is visiting the local tais (woven cotton) and handicrafts market, followed by a visit to the Santa Cruz Cemetery, where Timorese are memorialized who were massacred by Indonesian soldiers during a mourning ceremony in 1991. Also worth visiting is the Timor National Museum, or “Resistance Museum,” where you can learn about this rarely visited little nation’s struggle for independence.

Tourists can eat local food prepared in amazing ways at the Agora Food Studio. Timor has to import most foodstuffs and ingredients, so local dishes are made from local vegetables and other products and use very little meat. And even surrounded by the sea on nearly every side, fishing is still local and has not been industrialized.


 

Peaceful, quiet twilight atmosphere.
Daybreak in Dili City.
Peaceful, quiet twilight atmosphere.

Beachside life

If you like beachside life, you’re guaranteed to fall in love with Timor. Just a ten-minute drive takes you to where you can swim out to see manatees. The beach here is actually a bit messy, since Timorese garbage management isn’t highly developed. In general, though, Timor presents a beautiful, mostly pristine natural environment, since to this point there’s been no serious tourist development. Living in Dili is like having ocean and beach for a front yard. Get outside and run, cycle, sit and chill, do work-related activities, or go diving, just for starters. The manatee live where the undersea landscape holds full, perfect beds of seaweed, so you can swim with manatees almost the whole year round. This is extremely rare, especially in the capital city of a country.


 

Two young women putting their cloth on display.
Oceanside handcrafts shop
Risa, décor store owner: she makes each piece by hand.
Cool-looking cloth bag, makes an interesting souvenir.

Timor’s future

Some see Timor as having a “false economy,” meaning the cost of living can’t be accurately measured because there’s a large foreign population working in international assistance, a high rate of unemployment, very low average income, dependence on imports, and poor production of livestock and agricultural products. There are oil resources, in this the country has been taken advantage of by Australia and Indonesia. The fundamental infrastructure needed to support tourism isn’t yet there. Still, Timor has a lot of potential for development, probably nothing that will happen in leaps and bounds, but gradually, through long-term attention to resources and sustainability.


 

Santa Cruz Cemetery, where Timorese massacred by Indonesian soldiers are memorialized.

Travel Tips

  • Timor probably isn’t for everyone, but if you love adventure and just “going for it,” you’ll fall in love with this country.
  • On arrival in Dili you can obtain a visa for 30 dollars US.
  • US dollars are used here. Bring enough cash, because few shops accept credit cards. Also, don’t bring a lot of hundred dollar bills, because many places have no change.
  • This is a Christian country (Roman Catholic). If you want to attend services, you should dress well.
  • The local language is Tetun. In some places Timorese people still understand Portuguese and speak Indonesian (Bahasa Indonesia)
  • The cost of lodging in Dili averages150 dollars/night, and you should budget about 25 dollars/day for meals.

 

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Hla Day: From Artisan Community to Craft Shop in Myanmar

Hla Day: From Artisan Community to Craft Shop in Myanmar

The Hla Day Shop in Yangon is no ordinary crafts store. It sells works of skilled and authentic craftsmanship produced and marketed by a community of over 400 people working in an integrated, sustainable way with a product development team.

///Myanmar///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn

At the beginning of July Hla Day celebrated its first anniversary at the Pansodan Street location in Yangon; but in fact this group has been working since 2012 to support small community businesses in Myanmar in developing local products and bringing them to the international market, with an emphasis on quality and social sustainability. Hla Day was successful almost from the very start, its goods so well received that it was able to expand. With Ulla Kroeber as its leader, the team now works with communities in Yangon and many rural areas, giving recommendations to craftsmen on product types, materials, and production processes. Among other benefits, these efforts provide work and income for women who have contracted HIV.

The Hla Day Shop, on the upper floor of building no. 8, Pansodan Street
Ula Kroeber, Hla Day Team Leader (right)

          Products include pillow covers, scarves, ornaments, cards, and dolls, and usable items from recycled materials. Besides being finely crafted work, a core goal is that products be contemporary and useful, and success in all this has resulted in project support from the AirAsia Foundation. “Hla day” in Burmese translates as “beautiful,” and the beauty here runs deep in the creation of true utility and value for crafts communities, buyers, and society as a whole while never forgetting to help the people at the back of the line.

Link: http://www.hladaymyanmar.org

 

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A Fascinating One-Day Trip to Tanjung Sepat

A Fascinating One-Day Trip to Tanjung Sepat

/ Tanjung Sepat, Malaysia /

/ Story & Photograph: Samutcha Viraporn /

A sleepy little town has emerged as one of the most visited destinations in Malaysia. Tanjung Sepat is located a good 100 kilometers from Kuala Lumpur. The drive along the two-lane road passing lots of quaint small towns is pleasant and enjoyable. Let’s go!

 

A self-guided sightseeing tour is a great way to spend a day in Tanjung Sepat. The small fishing town in Kuala Langat in Selangor is named after a type of fish called Sepat.

The cape town is perfect for a day trip getaway from the city. There is so much to see and do there. Most visitors do not stay since it is only an hour plus drive from the city center. If one does wish to stay a night, there are a handful of small motels available.

It is recommended that one starts the day there early to catch a popular eatery named YiKee Seafood Bak Kut Teh. In fact, the eatery starts their food service as early as 7.30 a.m. and usually runs out of food by 10 a.m. It’s not just a tourist haunt, but many locals also flock there for a piping hot clay pot of herbal soup filled to the brim with meat and seafood.

After breakfast, take a leisure stroll through the main morning market just to check what they offer.

Then it’s off to catch some fishing docks in action, or simply head over to the farms to walk off the heavy meal. If you’ve missed the fishing boats coming in, you can still head over to some of the shops where they process the fish into fish products.

Thong Hsing Trading is located nearby the seafood bak kut teh eatery in one of the small lanes.

The fish ball factory is run in the vicinity of the owner’s home. If you’re early enough, you can catch them making fish balls and other fish products from scratch. Processing machines separate the flesh of the fish from the bones. One can buy all sorts of fish products here from fish balls to fish cakes, stuff fish paste and more.

There is also another popular place to buy or catch more fish products. And that is at the Yek Loong Enterprise fish ball factory located in a small shop lot near the main market.

Though the machines have taken over some of the more tedious work, there are still lots of work to be done by hands only and that includes this lady stuffing fish paste onto thin bean curd sheets to make Fu Chuk.

Though there are lots of farms to visit such as dragon fruit farm, longan farm and more, we opted for some cool places such as the Ganofarm.

Ganofarm is a mushroom research company that cultivates varieties of mushrooms for sale. One can catch quite a few common mushrooms they farmed there, such as Ling Zhi, Oyster, Abalone, Monkey Head and more.

Behind Ganofarm, there is a lovely area with a bridge to visit! One can actually walk out to the sea and take some great photos there, too. It is a lovely day; hence the sky is gorgeous as it meets the horizon of the sea.

There used to be another more popular bridge named the “Lover’s Bridge,” but that was taken down since it had collapsed earlier last year.

Near the bridge site, there are quite a few seafood restaurants that many flock to till today for seafood. A popular gift shop named Qing Ren Qiao Souvenir Shop sells lots local snacks and knick knacks.

There’re quite a few smaller pop up stalls selling food and drinks as well as sweets. This bicycle sells fried fish balls and other fish and dried seafood products that are yummy too.

For lunch, there are a few restaurants in the Lover’s Bridge vicinity, such as Ocean Seafood, Lover Bridge Tanjung Sepat, and Ban Joo Hin Seafood. Savor home cooked seafood dishes with a beautiful sea view.

 

After lunch, head over to Arowana Malayan Food Industries to catch some chips action. The factory produces a great variety of fried tapioca chips, vegetables chips, and more. You can catch the whole end-to-end process and buy bags of freshly fried chips.

The fascinating small town boasts many favorite local joints, where one can catch the makings of paus (fresh steamed stuffed buns) and even local coffee processing. Business has really taken off for Hai Yew Heng Pau as many locals and tourists flock there for fluffy steamed buns filled with pork, vegetables, peanut, red bean, and more.

Go early to order for takeaways as they do run out by afternoon, especially on the weekends. There is another place a few minutes away, too, for steamed paus named Mr. Black Hand-Made Pau that’s just as popular. Be ready to queue on weekends.

Near Hai Yew Heng Pau, there is also a coffee shop, Kwo Zha B Coffee. One can catch coffee beans being roasted fresh and grounded for sale. These are local strong coffee with a kick. There is another coffee place also a few lanes away named Joo Fa Trading.

After that, head over to Kuan Wellness Ecopark, an eco-friendly center where every one of all ages can benefit from a visit. The center has a collection of old classic cars all lined up for viewing.

The main center building focuses on the cultivation of bird nest. One can catch the tedious process, where many workers remove feather and dirt from the precious bird nest before it’s dried and packed for sale. Bird nest is said to have some health as well as beauty benefits.

Kuan Wellness Ecopark has a small animal sanctuary for fishes, rabbits, birds and even peacocks. For a small fee, one can enter the sanctuary that is also set with a nice landscape view of a windmill.

End your day with a beautiful stroll along the beaches to catch the sunset, or dine at one of the restaurants set along the sea with some of the freshest catch of the day.

Tanjung Sepat is truly a fascinating small town that warrants a lovely getaway from the city.

 

A Day Trip Through Charoen Krung

A Day Trip Through Charoen Krung

There is more to Charoen Krung than iconic landmarks. Keep walking and you will discover richer cultural heritage beyond the famous tourist attractions. A day trip through the historic riverfront neighborhood is one way to find out. Let the journey begin. 

/// Thailand ///

Story: Bundaree Deewong / Photo: Rithirong Chanthongsuk, Bundaree Deewong, Peerapol Taiyaithieng

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The historic neighborhood of Charoen Krung has attracted many tourists and locals looking for a glimpse of old-world Bangkok. Originally called New Road, the avenue and namesake pretty much follows the path of the Chao Phraya River. Rich in historical and cultural heritage, it’s a chic place to chill out if you have time on your hands.

The area is gradually transforming into a “creative district,” thanks to active collaboration between the Thailand Creative and Design Center (TCDC) and Thai Health, a wellness promotion organization. The initiative is aimed at promoting healthy behaviors for a better lifestyle and eventually mature to become a torchbearer for other districts to follow. Designed by Shma Soen, the project master plan recently won a highly commended award at the World Architecture Festival 2016 in Berlin.

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Living ASEAN invites you on a journey for pleasure to discover beautiful places and come back the same day. Let’s get started at:

09.00: The journey begins on the hour at Taksin Bridge BTS Station. The venue is chosen for the start because it is easy to get to. You can come here either by the Bangkok Transit System or by boat services on the Chao Phraya.

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On exiting the BTS station at Taksin Bridge or a nearby riverboat pier, take your time to admire Wall Art Exhibitions. Beautiful works by international artists have turned this neighborhood into a landmark ideal for photo shoots.

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The first attraction that you shouldn’t miss is Chiew Eng Buai, a beautiful Chinese shrine located a stone’s throw away from the BTS station at Taksin. The historic building was erected in memories of Chinese traders arriving by sailing ships but later killed due to a misunderstanding some 150 years ago. The Chinese architectural masterpiece is bedecked with beautifully patterned tiles, religious images, and dragon statuary. You are most welcome to drop in and pay respects.

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From the shrine, take a sidetrack next to the Shangri-La Hotel and you come to Charoen Krung Soi 50. The minor path is home to a Vintage Loft-style hostel named Glur Hotel Bangkok. It is popular among foreign tourists and backpackers looking for a decent place that won’t cost them an arm and a leg.

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From the hostel heading north, you are back on the main avenue of Charoen Krung. The famous Bang Rak Market is located between Choroen Krung Soi 46 and 42. It’s a slice of paradise for shoppers and great experience for people who love to eat. The main drag is lined with old row houses showcasing the architectural style of old-world Bangkok.

Unique Heritage Buildings Evokes Memories of KL’s Beautiful Past

Unique Heritage Buildings Evokes Memories of KL’s Beautiful Past

/ Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia /

/ Story & Photograph: Samutcha Viraporn /

Charming colonial buildings nestled amidst Kuala Lumpur’s sleek, glittering towers are beautiful reminders of the former mining town’s colorful past. It all began from where the two rivers, Sungai Klang and Sungai Gombak, met. A confluence of ideas gave rise to ten awe-inspiring masterpieces.

 

Each heritage building has its unique story to tell. Spare some time to catch them up close and be transported back to the good old days of colonial Kuala Lumpur. Let’s pay them a visit one at a time.

 

– Sultan Abdul Samad Building –

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Built to house the British administration in 1897, the Sultan Abdul Samad features Moorish arches and Mughal-inspired onion-shaped copper domes. It’s a far cry from architect A.C. Norman’s original idea: to leave behind a classic British masterpiece.

Following state engineer Charles Edwin Spooner’s suggestion to construct something more in tune with the local culture and religion, the domes and arches became a beautiful contrast to the quintessentially British 41-meter clock tower.

 

– City Theater –

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Indian and Arabic architectural influences are just as evident on this former City Hall, with its cream-colored arches and the majestic dome gracing the front porch.

Designed by architect A.B. Hubback, the building was finally completed in 1904. As the local Malays started reclaiming their administrative rights, the building began losing its initial purpose and was eventually converted into one of the finest theaters.

 

– High Court Building –

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Located just next door to the City Theater is the former High Court. You’ll instantly notice the architecture of the two buildings are similar yet unmistakably distinctive in their own way.

Function clearly defines form; the High Court was where justice was served and this serious, sombre purpose was reflected through its more masculine features and the foreboding double-pillared corridors. It’s a completely different feel from the City Theater’s more welcoming, feminine features, like the frilly silhouettes in its arches.

 

– Government Printing Office –

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Take note of the sweeping long windows. Step indoors and you’ll notice a lack of obstructing pillars. This intentional design is crucial for its former purpose in 1899, serving as the government printing office.

As this was at a time before electricity was available, the printers needed all the natural light they could get to assemble each page of the newspapers. Besides news from back home in Britain, the printers went on to produce popular publications at the time like the Selangor Journal.

 

– Chartered Bank Building –

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Also designed by A.C. Norman, this building was first used to host the Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, due to its close proximity to the police headquarters (where Bukit Aman currently is). Incorporating a similarly Mughal style, its horseshoe arches and scalloped windows are perfectly complemented by the four roof-top domes, made from Sarawakian timber.

KL’s tendency to flood resulted in one of the most peculiar stories in the city’s history, where in 1926 the drenched millions of dollars in the vault had to be spread on the opposite field to dry in the sun.

 

– Royal Selangor Club –

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There are two buildings in the city that followed a wholly British design, in honor of A.C. Norman’s initial intention with the Sultan Abdul Samad Building, The Royal Selangor Club is one of them. The clubhouse employs a classic Tudor style, defined by its signature black and white façade.

Due to flooding problems, the clubhouse was initially built on stilts. Today, it remains one of the most prestigious clubs in the country, serving as a socializing spot for the crème de la crème of Malaysia.

– St. Mary’s Cathedral, Kuala Lumpur –

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This Gothic church, with its tall, sloping roofs and narrow, stained glass windows, is the other British-influenced building in the city designed by A.C. Norman. History buffs may notice that the stained glass seen in the church now do not have the distinctive style of those made in 1894, when the church was built.

The originals were removed in the 1940s when the Japanese waged war against the town and the British feared the precious, intricate glasses would get damaged. The ones seen today were installed much later after the war, and until today nobody knows where the originals are kept hidden.

 

– Central Market –

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Built in 1888, the former wet market was the main shopping spot for the town’s dwellers and tin miners. When the Art Deco style started gaining popularity in the 1930s, the market received a makeover reflecting the current trend, with its stepped arch and square motifs on the wall. This classic vintage style continues to grace its cheery turquoise façade until today.

 

– OCBC Building –

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Located in what used to be the bustling Old Market Square of Kuala Lumpur, the former headquarters of OCBC Bank is designed complete with quintessential Art Deco features from its narrows windows to its flagpole. Completed in 1938, the building’s claim to fame was its innovative move to include a basement parking area for bicycles, which until then were obtrusively parked on the pavement.

 

– Sin Seng Nam Building –

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Nicknamed “The Vatican”, this historic restaurant was started in 1928 by Chinese immigrants. Serving wholesome Hainanese dishes and British classics, the restaurant became a popular dining choice for all walks of life during the time, from civil servants to lawyers.

Despite their diverse history and purpose, these heritage buildings stood the test of time and continue to grace the landscapes of Kuala Lumpur with their old-school charm.

 

There’s a lot more to Kuala Lumpur’s history just waiting to be discovered; if you’re keen on spending a morning listening to intimate stories about the city’s colorful past – from the fainting women at St. Mary’s Cathedral to the infamous murder scandal – check out the KL Heritage Walk! The free guided tour is held every Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday morning. For more information, click here.

Link: http://www.malaysiaheritage.net/

Sampran Riverside: A Green Model

Sampran Riverside: A Green Model

For over five decades “Suan Sampran”, also known as the “Rose Garden,” has been the admiration of everyone. The rich, well-cultivated piece of real estate is also home to a waterfront hotel that many have come to love. Nestled on a 170-rai plot on the beautiful Tha Chin River, the Sampran Riverside Hotel is a real gem.

/// Thailand ///

Story: Panchach Changchan /// Photos: Sungwan Phratep /// Location: Sampran Riverside www.sampranriverside.com

The Sampran Riverside Hotel sits embraced by a circle of trees by the bucolic Tha Chin River. The interior has since undergone a complete makeover giving it modern appeal and a great many conveniences.
The Sampran Riverside Hotel sits embraced by a circle of trees by the bucolic Tha Chin River. The interior has since undergone a complete makeover giving it modern appeal and a great many conveniences.
A well-preserved Thai-style home sits at the water’s edge evoking fond memories of riverside living not so long ago.
A well-preserved Thai-style home sits at the water’s edge evoking fond memories of riverside living not so long ago.
Every residential unit has a pier that juts out over the water. Made for relaxation, the raised structure is hemmed in by lush foliage and mature trees including banyan, mast, and coconut groves. Nearby, fragrant pandan plants thrive turning it into a sweet-smelling pond.
Every residential unit has a pier that juts out over the water. Made for relaxation, the raised structure is hemmed in by lush foliage and mature trees including banyan, mast, and coconut groves. Nearby, fragrant pandan plants thrive turning it into a sweet-smelling pond.
The renovated interior brings out the character of a modern villa complete with many amenities. An air-conditioning unit is hidden in plain sight behind wooden furnishings. /// Steep pitched rooflines add an airy atmosphere to the impressive interior design. The triangular portion of the wall is adapted to offer plenty of openings to allow natural light and make the design appear lightweight.
The renovated interior brings out the character of a modern villa complete with many amenities. An air-conditioning unit is hidden in plain sight behind wooden furnishings. /// Steep pitched rooflines add an airy atmosphere to the impressive interior design. The triangular portion of the wall is adapted to offer plenty of openings to allow natural light and make the design appear lightweight.

Only the name has changed. The famous Rose Garden is now known as the Sampran Riverside Hotel. Everything else remains the same — great atmosphere, beautiful garden, and cozy accommodations. The main hotel building and six Thai-style homes at the water’s edge have undergone complete makeovers. Apart from modernistic interior design and new décor ideas in some corners, the warm and inviting ambience is there like it’s always been. The Sampran Riverside carries on the tradition as a salubrious destination with views of the river, the garden, and the unhurried way of life of the surrounding community.

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Damask roses thrive in a chemical-free environment. Besides their ethereal beauty, rose petals also have other practical uses. Among other things, Damask rose petals make for sweet-smelling tea when dried.
Damask roses thrive in a chemical-free environment. Besides their ethereal beauty, rose petals also have other practical uses. Among other things, Damask rose petals make for sweet-smelling tea when dried.

The Thai Village Zone is the hotel’s latest attraction designed to take visitors on a journey back in time. It offers plenty of activities that afford the chance for individual participation. They include traditional textile weaving, flower garland making, and umbrella painting. For those who love going to the show, there are folk art performances, music, cultural storytelling, children’s games, martial art performances, and the famous Thai elephants show.

Apart from the magnificent Thai elephants show, folk art performances are well received among visitors. Waves of laughter confirm they find great storytelling about the Thai way of life as fascinating as it is informative.
Apart from the magnificent Thai elephants show, folk art performances are well received among visitors. Waves of laughter confirm they find great storytelling about the Thai way of life as fascinating as it is informative.

The new name was timed to coincide with an entirely new concept in property management. The hotel owners, now the third generation, have decided it was time to go green because nature was home and it deserved to be well looked after. Damask rose farming needed a lot of chemical fertilizers. So the management decided to gradually do away with it. In the process, the land traditionally used for rose cultivation was reduced to just a few small plots. The rest, about 30 rai, was transformed into a thriving organic farm. It was a win-win situation for all. For the hotel workforce, it meant better health and wellness. Nowadays fruits and vegetables are picked fresh every day, enough to meet the needs of four restaurants on the premises.

The wetlands ecosystem offer many benefits from supporting plants and aquatic life to filtering spent water before it is made safe and returned to natural waterways. Among the useful species are edible fern (Diplazium esculentum), arrowhead Amazon flowers, and pandan plants (pandanus amaryllifolius).
The wetlands ecosystem offer many benefits from supporting plants and aquatic life to filtering spent water before it is made safe and returned to natural waterways. Among the useful species are edible fern (Diplazium esculentum), arrowhead Amazon flowers, and pandan plants (pandanus amaryllifolius).

The organic initiative is called the “Sampran Model”. The concept reaches out to agriculturists in the vicinity. The hotel acts a go-between man connecting farmers in Nakhon Patom to consumers both in and outside the community. It encourages agriculturists to avoid using chemicals and set up fair trade markets to promote sales. On weekends it puts on special events to make fresh fruits and produce available to consumers.

The weekend is the best time to relive the past as the lush oasis comes alive with activity, including the much-talked-about Floating Market. Aboard traditional rowboats, vendors come loaded with good foods as well as fruits and produce picked fresh from neighborhood farms.
The weekend is the best time to relive the past as the lush oasis comes alive with activity, including the much-talked-about Floating Market. Aboard traditional rowboats, vendors come loaded with good foods as well as fruits and produce picked fresh from neighborhood farms.

Our team had the opportunity to catch a ferry ride to the opposite side of the river. We landed on a thriving fruit orchard that was organically cultivated. Anirut Khaosanit, also called the local wise man, was kind enough to share his knowledge and years of experience on organic farming. His was a mixed-species vegetable farm, where morning glory, eggplant, climbing wattle and luffa are grown using compost made from green waste.

Herbs and pleasant smelling flowers thrive in the front garden.
Herbs and pleasant smelling flowers thrive in the front garden.

 There was never a dull moment. Our day in Sampran was packed with stories and activities. From the vegetable farm, we proceeded to nearby Sook-Jai Market and Rim-Klong Market looking for delicious meals that were made fresh the traditional way. There were plenty of those.

A wellness spa parlor showcases a full array of “Patom” skin-nourishing products. The house brand offers many aromatherapy products handcrafted from Damask roses and organically cultivated herbs. www.patom.com
A wellness spa parlor showcases a full array of “Patom” skin-nourishing products. The house brand offers many aromatherapy products handcrafted from Damask roses and organically cultivated herbs. www.patom.com

Once a rose garden on the Tha Chin River, the newly renovated hotel has grown and become an awesome destination offering upscale accommodations and exposure to cultural exchanges. The Sampran Riverside no doubt has discovered that going green is the way forward. It translates into happiness for all. Pursuing the sustainable path not only benefits the hotel and its guests, but also contributes significantly to the betterment of society to which it belongs.

This little hill has been standing here for a very long time. It is home to many flowers, especially local species like wild sage, gold showers, yellow cosmos flowers, and gardenia crape jasmine. All of these species thrive in their natural habitat.
This little hill has been standing here for a very long time. It is home to many flowers, especially local species like wild sage, gold showers, yellow cosmos flowers, and gardenia crape jasmine. All of these species thrive in their natural habitat.
The Thai Way of Life Zone isn’t about just farming demonstrations. It offers hands-on experience in every step of rice cultivation. Guests can try their hand at doing it, from sowing seeds and replanting to harvesting and milling.
The Thai Way of Life Zone isn’t about just farming demonstrations. It offers hands-on experience in every step of rice cultivation. Guests can try their hand at doing it, from sowing seeds and replanting to harvesting and milling.
Modern day Thais don’t chew betel nut. But mature Areca palms are kept on the property as part of the original groves that have stood here since times past. They tell stories of unique charm of the way of life in Central Thailand.
Modern day Thais don’t chew betel nut. But mature Areca palms are kept on the property as part of the original groves that have stood here since times past. They tell stories of unique charm of the way of life in Central Thailand.
Anirut, lovingly called the local wise man, is always there to share his knowledge with visitors. /// His blackboard shows the timetable, tips, and tricks for growing plants, making compost, and care for the vegetable gardens.
Anirut, lovingly called the local wise man, is always there to share his knowledge with visitors. /// His blackboard shows the timetable, tips, and tricks for growing plants, making compost, and care for the vegetable gardens.
Kids and parents enjoy a field day on the weekend. It’s a good opportunity to learn about farming while having fun harvesting fresh fruits and produce.
Kids and parents enjoy a field day on the weekend. It’s a good opportunity to learn about farming while having fun harvesting fresh fruits and produce.
Children take stock of fruits, vegetables, and eggs picked fresh and ready for their first lunch on a farm.
Children take stock of fruits, vegetables, and eggs picked fresh and ready for their first lunch on a farm.
A traditional riverboat ferries hotel guests to an organic farm on the opposite side of the river.
A traditional riverboat ferries hotel guests to an organic farm on the opposite side of the river.
Ipoh: A Journey Back In Time

Ipoh: A Journey Back In Time

/ Ipoh, Malaysia /

/ Story: Samutcha Viraporn / English version: Bob Pitakwong /

/ Photographs: Sitthisak Namkham

Foods, retail shops, and buildings that evoke wistful affection for the past are three things that have drawn us to Ipoh. It’s nice to be back to find those gorgeous old hotels and cafes’ doing very well indeed.

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A lone Ipoh tree, its namesake, thrives in the front yard of the town’s train station. In times past, sap from the Ipoh was the main ingredient in making poison-tipped arrows that kill.
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Old meets new. Creative wall painting ideas add life to the distressed interior of an old-town cafe popular among visitors.
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A mixed variety of buns comes crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Ipoh is situated just 200 kilometers by car from the capital Kuala Lumpur. And it’s not just those visitors. Malaysians from across the nation are drawn here in droves.

The old town sits on the west bank of the Kinta River. Here colonial architecture abounds, the most important landmark of which is Jalan Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab.

The white Neo-Classic piece of architecture on Club Road is dubbed Ipoh’s Taj Mahal. In front of it stands a lone Ipoh tree, the town’s namesake.

In times past, sap from the tree was used as the main ingredient in making poison-tipped arrows that kill. Cross the street, and we come before the majestic Town Hall and nearby Postal Service Building. Beautifully kept Neo-Classic details in shades of white indicate they were products of the colonial period.

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The train station is a beautiful piece of architecture. Pardon the appearances. The Majestic Hotel located inside is closed for renovation.
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A well-kept postal service building is a graceful sight across from the train station.

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The Church of St John The Divine.
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The St Michael’s Institution

The city’s main drag leads further north to the historic Church of St John The Divine. At one time, it was regarded as the largest house of worship in Malaysia when it was completed in 1912.

The structure was crafted of building materials known for the best qualities in years gone by. The exterior walls showcased bare brickwork made of coconut-shell fibers mixed with sugar and egg white to create strong binding agents.

There is a school, known as the St Michael’s Institution, standing right next to it, as well as a mosque, called Padang.

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A journey down memory lane. Well-preserved row houses line the peaceful thoroughfare of old-town Ipoh.

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Small old-styled shops dot both sides ofPanglima Lane, or Concubine Lane,famed for its cobblestone look.
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Walls covered in satirical graffiti abound in public places across town.
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One of Malaysia’s oldest restaurants, the FMS, stands graciously on the corner.
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Vine-covered shop facades speak to an unhurried lifestyle in this nostalgic part of town.

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Left: Tenaca Nasional, Malaysia’s main energy provider, also has an office here in this magnificently kept building. Right: Distressed walls along a shopping arcadeevoke nostalgic feelings on a journey down memory lane.
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Retailers showcase interesting arrays of handicraft goods on the covered passageway of Sekeping Hong Heng, an Ipoh neighborhood.

Heading south, we come to a commercial district on Jalan Sultan Yussufand Jalan Dato Maharajalela Roads. The area known for old-world charms is home to beautiful restaurants, including those dubbed the oldest of Malaysia.

There are a few Japanese-owned photo studios that have been here since the 1930s. Rumors had it that they were here to gather intelligence during those thrilling days of yesteryear. Convincingly enough, the Imperial Japanese Army came ashore in 1941.

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The Old Town White Coffee, a cafe’ chain ubiquitous across Malaysia, has its origin right here in old Ipoh.
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Downtown restaurants are packed when the day is done. There is nothing like mouthwatering collections of recipes, for which Ipoh is famous. Take-outs are available, too.
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It makes my day to drop into a local delicatessen offering Chinese-style flaky buns rich in creamy fillings, Xiang Bin.

It’s impossible not to mention the good foods that have attracted visitors to Malaysia, and Ipoh for that matter. White Coffee, the famous cafe chain, was born here.

The same applied to pomelo, dubbed the king of citrus fruits, and Chinese-style flaky buns with creamy filling. Find them at any local delicatessen. Whilst here, look for the greatest taste of the country – Hunan chicken with rice served with bean sprouts the authentic Malaysian way. It’s heaven on earth.

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A memorial in honor of war victims stands in front of the train station.

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Yangon / Largest Collection of Colonial Architecture in Southeast Asia

Yangon / Largest Collection of Colonial Architecture in Southeast Asia

Under British rule from 1824 to 1948, Yangon became a significant center of commerce located between India and Singapore. The streets of Yangon offer a glimpse of the opulence of the old city and its heritage. A walking tour is one way to find out.

///  Myanmar ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photos: Samutcha Viraporn

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After the second Anglo-Burmese war, Yangon was occupied by British troops.  Burma came under British rule, during which time it was declared a province of British India. The British made significant changes to the city of Yangon. In 1853, Dr. W. Montgomery and then lieutenant governor A. Fraser laid out a grid of tree-lined streets for the city of Yangon. New city planning placed the Sule Pagoda at the city center.

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After three Anglo-Burmese wars, the British in 1885 occupied all the area of present-day Myanmar. Despite the conflict, many new buildings were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and remained to be seen today. Some of them became government offices, embassies, the stock exchange, even shops and cafés. Others were abandoned and fell in disrepair. In 2012 the Yangon Heritage Trust was established to promote the environmental conservation of Yangon’s rich urban heritage through cohesive planning.

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The exhibition about colonial buildings in Yangon Heritage Trust office

One of the programs undertaken by the Trust is the Heritage Walking Tour through downtown areas. People who love architecture can visit the Yangon Heritage Trust office on Pansodan Street. There is an exhibition going along with   useful information about six routes for sightseeing. They are outlined in brochures. If time is not on your side, Living ASEAN recommends a shorter route as an option. The starting point is on Pansodan Street.  Start your journey on foot from here. Turn left into Merchant Road, then another left on to Sule Pagoda Road.  Soon you will come to Strand Road (See this route on the map). Give it two hours or a little more than that, and you witness a lot of Yangon’s glorious past and beautiful heritage. Need a break? Drop into the beautiful Rangoon Tea House for refreshments, or the coffee shop at the Strand Hotel. After a couple of hours on the road, coffee smells like heaven!

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You can find some design items at Hla Day shop
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Take a seat at Rangoon Tea House

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Link: www.yangonheritagetrust.org/home

 

Vann Molyvann: The Forgotten Masterpieces of Phnom Penh

Vann Molyvann: The Forgotten Masterpieces of Phnom Penh

/ Phnom Penh, Cambodia /

/ Story: Jeremiah Pitakwong / Photographs: Samutcha Viraporn, Damrong Leewairoj /

There is more to Cambodia than Angkor Wat. Phnom Penh itself is a city with a legacy from its glorious days. Many may have lost in time. But some remain; including the architectural buildings designed by Vann Molyvann.

The Royal University of Phnom Penh's library building. Exterior pillars support the building weight (no pillars inside). The building is surrounded by a pond containing raindrops from a gutter.
The Royal University of Phnom Penh’s library building is surrounded by a pond. The building weight relies mainly on the exterior pillar.

 

The Institute of Foreign Languages's meeting room. The floor is elevated and the roof helps tackle with the heat.
The Institute of Foreign Languages’s meeting room. The floor is elevated and the roof helps tackle with the heat.

Phnom Penh is equipped with a great city-planning. Temples and palaces in the city have a hint of Southeast Asian style component incorporated with French colonial architecture. Although parts of these heritages are deteriorated, their good old days can still shone through.

Among high-rise buildings and growing villages indicating Cambodia’s improving economy, old and valuable buildings are neglected as the government and foreign investors prefer the “Modern” which suggests “Prosperity” rather than renovating its old ones.

However, old doesn’t mean out. Vann Molyvann, has designed “Modern” principal buildings since the 1960s.

Vann Molyvann was born in 1926. He was granted the scholarship from Cambodian government to study architecture at Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts in France, where many modern architects are nurtured.  After the graduation, he served as a State Architect in 1956 and also played an important role for a period.

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The lifted walkway in the back gives a shade to the pathway below.
Details of light boxes a roof and a facade of the Institute of Foreign Languages group of buildings
Details of light boxes a roof and a facade of the Institute of Foreign Languages group of buildings

His significant works was designed and built within 1974; The National Theater (later torn down), the National Sports Complex (a.k.a. Olympic Stadium), the Institute of Foreign Languages inside the Royal University of Phnom Penh, Chaktomuk Conference Hall (renovated). All of his works could be considered as modern and would definitely be treated as national treasures if they were in Europe.

Since the government policies regarding these building are unknown, their futures are uncertain. For those who have an urge for a modern building, a quick sightseeing trip to the remaining site is highly recommended. Also, don’t forget to check out www.ka-tours.org where you can book a private architecture tour in Cambodia conducted by Cambodian architecture students.

The exterior of the National Sports Complex.
The exterior of the National Sports Complex.

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A yellow transparent fiberglass partition at the entrance and a gutter below.
A yellow transparent fiberglass partition at the entrance and a gutter below.

 

Vann Molyvann has designed a proper ventilation system for a tropical climate.
Vann Molyvann has designed a proper ventilation system for a tropical climate.

 

An area inside the stadium and a press observation deck overlooks the amphitheater.
An area inside the stadium and a press observation deck overlooks the amphitheater.

 

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Details of the indoor stadium roof.
Details of the indoor stadium roof.

At the age of 89, Van Molyvann has returned from his fugitive in France and now living in Siam Reap. While many might have already forgotten about his iconic buildings, it is safe to say his pages in the history will never be erased.

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