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Which is the real Pad Thai?

Which is the real Pad Thai?

Pad Thai is one of Thailand’s best-known dishes. What’s not so well known is that some noodles sold to tourists under that name isn’t Pad Thai at all, and this is especially true with what you’re liable to find sold from cart vendors around Khao San Road. Let’s take a look at what Pad Thai is really all about.

/// Thailand ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// English Version: Peter Montalbano /// Photography: Rithirong Chanthongsuk, Supawan Sa-ard

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Pad Thai at a famous restaurant it the Pratu Phi district. Here, it’s said, the prime minister who invented the dish came to eat and gave the taste a big “thumbs up.”

In fact 99% of the restaurants in Thailand sell authentic Pad Thai with only slightly varying recipes, and all with the same ingredients. The basic recipe calls for kuai tiao rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, chopped garlic chive, chopped sweet radish, dried shrimp, bean sprout, flavored with mandarin juice, sugar, and roasted peanuts, and eaten with fresh vegetables like garlic chive, raw bean sprout, and banana blossom. Another very popular variation includes the addition of big shrimp into the stir-fry mix. Pad Thai sold from Khao San tourist area carts, though, has quite a different taste. If you gave some of that to a Thai, that person might say, “this is actually pad si iw (soya-flavored stir-fry) with skinny noodles, more like.”

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Cart selling Pad Thai along Khao San Road. Look, the cook is a foreigner!
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Some cart vendors offer a variety of noodle types to chose from.

Of course, if you aren’t yourself too familiar with Pad Thai you probably won’t suffer much, because whatever noodle dish it is probably won’t taste too horrible, but if you’re looking for the real thing, this is not Pad Thai. Starting off with the flavor, they use dark soy sauce instead of the delicate tamarind juice with its hidden sour and sweet flavor. They follow up by putting cabbage, khana (Chinese kale), and carrots instead of those pungently fragrant garlic chive leaves. Done that way, Pad Thai becomes a completely different kind of stir-fried noodles.

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Fresh shrimp Pad Thai adds large shrimp, and the tamarind sauce/shrimp oil combination gives the noodles a more reddish tint.
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False Pad Thai. This has a very salty and oily taste, and also uses the wrong vegetables.

So, then, what is that real Pad Thai all about? In the early days of the Thai republic, around World War II, Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram was Prime Minister, and he wanted to create a Thai dish which would express Thai national identity. The following video clip, produced by the Thai Tourism Authority, does a good job explaining the origin and composition of Pad Thai:

 

Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thai_cuisine

Sampran Riverside: A Green Model

Sampran Riverside: A Green Model

For over five decades “Suan Sampran”, also known as the “Rose Garden,” has been the admiration of everyone. The rich, well-cultivated piece of real estate is also home to a waterfront hotel that many have come to love. Nestled on a 170-rai plot on the beautiful Tha Chin River, the Sampran Riverside Hotel is a real gem.

/// Thailand ///

Story: Panchach Changchan /// Photos: Sungwan Phratep /// Location: Sampran Riverside www.sampranriverside.com

The Sampran Riverside Hotel sits embraced by a circle of trees by the bucolic Tha Chin River. The interior has since undergone a complete makeover giving it modern appeal and a great many conveniences.
The Sampran Riverside Hotel sits embraced by a circle of trees by the bucolic Tha Chin River. The interior has since undergone a complete makeover giving it modern appeal and a great many conveniences.
A well-preserved Thai-style home sits at the water’s edge evoking fond memories of riverside living not so long ago.
A well-preserved Thai-style home sits at the water’s edge evoking fond memories of riverside living not so long ago.
Every residential unit has a pier that juts out over the water. Made for relaxation, the raised structure is hemmed in by lush foliage and mature trees including banyan, mast, and coconut groves. Nearby, fragrant pandan plants thrive turning it into a sweet-smelling pond.
Every residential unit has a pier that juts out over the water. Made for relaxation, the raised structure is hemmed in by lush foliage and mature trees including banyan, mast, and coconut groves. Nearby, fragrant pandan plants thrive turning it into a sweet-smelling pond.
The renovated interior brings out the character of a modern villa complete with many amenities. An air-conditioning unit is hidden in plain sight behind wooden furnishings. /// Steep pitched rooflines add an airy atmosphere to the impressive interior design. The triangular portion of the wall is adapted to offer plenty of openings to allow natural light and make the design appear lightweight.
The renovated interior brings out the character of a modern villa complete with many amenities. An air-conditioning unit is hidden in plain sight behind wooden furnishings. /// Steep pitched rooflines add an airy atmosphere to the impressive interior design. The triangular portion of the wall is adapted to offer plenty of openings to allow natural light and make the design appear lightweight.

Only the name has changed. The famous Rose Garden is now known as the Sampran Riverside Hotel. Everything else remains the same — great atmosphere, beautiful garden, and cozy accommodations. The main hotel building and six Thai-style homes at the water’s edge have undergone complete makeovers. Apart from modernistic interior design and new décor ideas in some corners, the warm and inviting ambience is there like it’s always been. The Sampran Riverside carries on the tradition as a salubrious destination with views of the river, the garden, and the unhurried way of life of the surrounding community.

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Damask roses thrive in a chemical-free environment. Besides their ethereal beauty, rose petals also have other practical uses. Among other things, Damask rose petals make for sweet-smelling tea when dried.
Damask roses thrive in a chemical-free environment. Besides their ethereal beauty, rose petals also have other practical uses. Among other things, Damask rose petals make for sweet-smelling tea when dried.

The Thai Village Zone is the hotel’s latest attraction designed to take visitors on a journey back in time. It offers plenty of activities that afford the chance for individual participation. They include traditional textile weaving, flower garland making, and umbrella painting. For those who love going to the show, there are folk art performances, music, cultural storytelling, children’s games, martial art performances, and the famous Thai elephants show.

Apart from the magnificent Thai elephants show, folk art performances are well received among visitors. Waves of laughter confirm they find great storytelling about the Thai way of life as fascinating as it is informative.
Apart from the magnificent Thai elephants show, folk art performances are well received among visitors. Waves of laughter confirm they find great storytelling about the Thai way of life as fascinating as it is informative.

The new name was timed to coincide with an entirely new concept in property management. The hotel owners, now the third generation, have decided it was time to go green because nature was home and it deserved to be well looked after. Damask rose farming needed a lot of chemical fertilizers. So the management decided to gradually do away with it. In the process, the land traditionally used for rose cultivation was reduced to just a few small plots. The rest, about 30 rai, was transformed into a thriving organic farm. It was a win-win situation for all. For the hotel workforce, it meant better health and wellness. Nowadays fruits and vegetables are picked fresh every day, enough to meet the needs of four restaurants on the premises.

The wetlands ecosystem offer many benefits from supporting plants and aquatic life to filtering spent water before it is made safe and returned to natural waterways. Among the useful species are edible fern (Diplazium esculentum), arrowhead Amazon flowers, and pandan plants (pandanus amaryllifolius).
The wetlands ecosystem offer many benefits from supporting plants and aquatic life to filtering spent water before it is made safe and returned to natural waterways. Among the useful species are edible fern (Diplazium esculentum), arrowhead Amazon flowers, and pandan plants (pandanus amaryllifolius).

The organic initiative is called the “Sampran Model”. The concept reaches out to agriculturists in the vicinity. The hotel acts a go-between man connecting farmers in Nakhon Patom to consumers both in and outside the community. It encourages agriculturists to avoid using chemicals and set up fair trade markets to promote sales. On weekends it puts on special events to make fresh fruits and produce available to consumers.

The weekend is the best time to relive the past as the lush oasis comes alive with activity, including the much-talked-about Floating Market. Aboard traditional rowboats, vendors come loaded with good foods as well as fruits and produce picked fresh from neighborhood farms.
The weekend is the best time to relive the past as the lush oasis comes alive with activity, including the much-talked-about Floating Market. Aboard traditional rowboats, vendors come loaded with good foods as well as fruits and produce picked fresh from neighborhood farms.

Our team had the opportunity to catch a ferry ride to the opposite side of the river. We landed on a thriving fruit orchard that was organically cultivated. Anirut Khaosanit, also called the local wise man, was kind enough to share his knowledge and years of experience on organic farming. His was a mixed-species vegetable farm, where morning glory, eggplant, climbing wattle and luffa are grown using compost made from green waste.

Herbs and pleasant smelling flowers thrive in the front garden.
Herbs and pleasant smelling flowers thrive in the front garden.

 There was never a dull moment. Our day in Sampran was packed with stories and activities. From the vegetable farm, we proceeded to nearby Sook-Jai Market and Rim-Klong Market looking for delicious meals that were made fresh the traditional way. There were plenty of those.

A wellness spa parlor showcases a full array of “Patom” skin-nourishing products. The house brand offers many aromatherapy products handcrafted from Damask roses and organically cultivated herbs. www.patom.com
A wellness spa parlor showcases a full array of “Patom” skin-nourishing products. The house brand offers many aromatherapy products handcrafted from Damask roses and organically cultivated herbs. www.patom.com

Once a rose garden on the Tha Chin River, the newly renovated hotel has grown and become an awesome destination offering upscale accommodations and exposure to cultural exchanges. The Sampran Riverside no doubt has discovered that going green is the way forward. It translates into happiness for all. Pursuing the sustainable path not only benefits the hotel and its guests, but also contributes significantly to the betterment of society to which it belongs.

This little hill has been standing here for a very long time. It is home to many flowers, especially local species like wild sage, gold showers, yellow cosmos flowers, and gardenia crape jasmine. All of these species thrive in their natural habitat.
This little hill has been standing here for a very long time. It is home to many flowers, especially local species like wild sage, gold showers, yellow cosmos flowers, and gardenia crape jasmine. All of these species thrive in their natural habitat.
The Thai Way of Life Zone isn’t about just farming demonstrations. It offers hands-on experience in every step of rice cultivation. Guests can try their hand at doing it, from sowing seeds and replanting to harvesting and milling.
The Thai Way of Life Zone isn’t about just farming demonstrations. It offers hands-on experience in every step of rice cultivation. Guests can try their hand at doing it, from sowing seeds and replanting to harvesting and milling.
Modern day Thais don’t chew betel nut. But mature Areca palms are kept on the property as part of the original groves that have stood here since times past. They tell stories of unique charm of the way of life in Central Thailand.
Modern day Thais don’t chew betel nut. But mature Areca palms are kept on the property as part of the original groves that have stood here since times past. They tell stories of unique charm of the way of life in Central Thailand.
Anirut, lovingly called the local wise man, is always there to share his knowledge with visitors. /// His blackboard shows the timetable, tips, and tricks for growing plants, making compost, and care for the vegetable gardens.
Anirut, lovingly called the local wise man, is always there to share his knowledge with visitors. /// His blackboard shows the timetable, tips, and tricks for growing plants, making compost, and care for the vegetable gardens.
Kids and parents enjoy a field day on the weekend. It’s a good opportunity to learn about farming while having fun harvesting fresh fruits and produce.
Kids and parents enjoy a field day on the weekend. It’s a good opportunity to learn about farming while having fun harvesting fresh fruits and produce.
Children take stock of fruits, vegetables, and eggs picked fresh and ready for their first lunch on a farm.
Children take stock of fruits, vegetables, and eggs picked fresh and ready for their first lunch on a farm.
A traditional riverboat ferries hotel guests to an organic farm on the opposite side of the river.
A traditional riverboat ferries hotel guests to an organic farm on the opposite side of the river.
The Colonial Style in Cambodia

The Colonial Style in Cambodia

The colonial style is apparent, but most of the buildings were designed with appropriate adaptations to fit in with the hot and humid climate.

/ Phnom Penh, Cambodia /

/ Story & Photograph: Virak Roeun /

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The “Place de la Poste” Square with the Cambodia Post building in background
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Neoclassical features on the front façade of Cambodia Post Building

The French colonial style of architecture is apparent, but most of the buildings were designed with appropriate adaptations to fit in with the hot and humid climate. They included design features, décor ideas, and ornaments well suited for the local environment, examples of which are obvious on the façade of the Postal Service Building. Built in 1895, Cambodia Post showcases wooden louver windows and doors, high ceilings and solid brick walls designed to keep the heat out. Opposite it stands the former Hotel Manolis, where Monsieur André Malraux, a celebrated novelist and first minister of culture of France, stayed in the 1920s. Since 1979 it has become a private residence. The Cambodia Post building looks extraordinarily good on a grand scale, but the abandoned Central Police Commissariat nearby is probably more elaborate in design. Its exterior appears to be neglected, but inside, the corridors and the rooms are never directly exposed to the elements and the heat.

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The former Hotel Manolis exhibits an architectural style prevalent during the French colonial era.
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Terraced houses reminiscent of old-world Europe lie opposite the Manolis.
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An original wooden staircase inside the Manolis
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A room number plate stands the test of time at the former hotel Manolis.
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The former water tank of the hotel Manolis
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Original tile flooring at the Manolis tells a story of its long and arduous journey through time.
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Vendors set up shop in front of the abandoned Central Police Commissariat in Phnom Penh.
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Mirror images of design details are evident throughout this building from colonial era.

 

 

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The entrance to the former Bank of Indochina

Le Bibliotheque, Cambodia’s national library is situated on Daun Penh Avenue, next to the luxurious Raffles Hotel Le Royal. The sights of beautifully crafted columns, porticos, and pediments evoke images of French neoclassical architecture in years past. Adapted to blend well in a new environment, the library building showcases locally inspired ornamentation rather than Greek influences. There are also traces of styles that characterize Art Deco architecture that followed in later periods, examples of which included reinforced concrete buildings adapted for better ventilation. The Psar Thmei, or Central Market is one of them. The market is not only interesting in terms of design, but has always been a vibrant and bustling commercial address right to this day.

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The National Library
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The Bibliotheque showcases French neoclassical architecture adapted to include locally inspired ornamentation on every column.
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The Royal Railway Station
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Parabolic arches built of reinforced concrete support the passenger terminal at the train station.
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The railway platform awaits the arrival of the next train.
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An entryway to the Psar Thmei central market
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Shop fronts before opening hours
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Oculus design culminates at the apex of the dome protecting the Psar Thmei central market.

The walking map of central Phnom Penh by KATours, a non-profit organization, is downloadable online here. Give it a try next time you are in Phnom Penh. It’s really useful if you like these buildings and their past glory days.

Reference

  • The History of Cambodia, From the French Colonial Period until the Present Day, Part 1 by Vandy Kaonn
  • The French Presence in Cochinchina and Cambodia by Milton E. Osborne
  • Modern Khmer Cities by Vann Molyvann
  • KATours internal documents describing the Post Office by Ester van der Laan
  • The Phnom Penh Map in the 1920s from the Library of Congress
  • The Master Plan of Phnom Penh 1925
10 Delicious Malay Dishes You Must Try

10 Delicious Malay Dishes You Must Try

The Malay kitchen is often overflowing with heavenly scents and beautifully complex flavours, thanks to the vast range of fresh herbs and spices used in most of its dishes. Generally hearty and wholesome, Malay dishes are the ultimate comfort food with a spicy twist. Its beautiful flavours are best showcased by these 10 iconic dishes:

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Nasi Lemak

This national dish has a special place in every Malaysian’s heart and for good reason: the coconut milk-infused rice is the perfect mix of flavours and textures when paired with its staple sides: spicy sambal, hard-boiled egg, fried anchovies, peanuts, and cucumbers. You’ll see this dish being served at any time of the day, from breakfast all the way until 3 a.m. suppers.

 

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Mee Rebus

This comforting bowlful of blanched yellow noodles is especially loved for its rich stew-like gravy, made from sweet potatoes, beef stock, and an intricate mix of herbs and spices. Top it all off with some fried tofu, fresh green chillies and a refreshing spritz of lime and you’re good to go!

 

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Satay

These marinated meats on sticks are roasted over charcoal to get its signature smoky flavour. Having satay is not complete without a side chunky peanut sauce, rice cubes, cucumber, and fresh onions. Most places serve beef and chicken versions, but you could get more exotic meats like venison and rabbit at more dedicated satay stalls.

 

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Ayam Kampung

The Malay take on fried chicken uses spring chicken that is deep-fried to a crisp and savoured simply with white rice, raw vegetables, and some hearty curry. This simple yet unbelievably satisfying dish is mostly served for lunch.

 

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Asam Pedas

This highly popular dish in the Southern states of Johor and Melaka is at its best when the spicy-sour balance is just right. The kesum leaves and torch ginger flowers are often used to give the gravy its signature fragrant scent. This dish is almost always cooked with stingray, although sometimes chicken or fatty beef is used instead.

 

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Nasi Kerabu

The rice gets its trademark blue hue from butterfly-pea flowers and is usually served with ayam percik (grilled chicken topped with spiced coconut gravy). The richness of the dish is beautifully contrasted with fresh, raw ingredients like long beans, cucumbers, and cabbage. Some salted egg adds a little extra flavour to this colourful dish.

 

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Roti Jala

Watching Roti Jala being made is mesmerising in itself; the turmeric-infused batter is drizzled on a hot griddle until cooked, and the web-like crepe is rolled to form its distinct look. They are best eaten with a side of thick chicken curry. You can have these as desserts too, by pairing them with a creamy durian dip.

 

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Laksa Johor

Laksa, which generally refers to rice noodles served in a fish-based gravy, has various interpretations according to the different states in Malaysia. The Johoreans are famous for their own take on this classic dish; savour its chunky gravy with flaked mackerel, ladled over spaghetti and topped with shredded cucumber, onions, kesum leaves, sambal, and lime. Although it’s a noodle dish, it’s traditionally eaten by hand.

 

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Masak Lemak

This instantly-recognisable dish, with its trademark yellow hue, is ever-present at any Malay restaurant. Made from freshly-ground turmeric, this decadent gravy uses bird’s eye chillies to offset the creaminess of the coconut milk. It’s usually served with white rice but one sip of this flavourful dish and you may be tempted to have it on its own.

 

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Nasi Goreng Kampung

This wok-fried rice dish packs a punch with its distinctive flavour – the rice is cooked with anchovies, shrimp paste and water spinach – and is never complete without a sunny side up! Just like the Nasi Lemak, this crowd favourite is a common choice regardless of the time of the day.

Five Roof Types in Laos: Vernacular Architecture in Perspective

Five Roof Types in Laos: Vernacular Architecture in Perspective

Laos, officially the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, is one of ten ASEAN members. There is more to Laos than Luang Prabang, the beautiful old city and World Heritage site. The country is also known for beautiful culture, unique traditions, and pristine landscape.

Story: Thanavoud Inthasone, Xaysomvang Philavong, Souksavanh Vongchandy /// Illustrations: Thanavoud Inthasone /// Editors: Thassareeya Songpao, Witchayapha Boonpha

In this episode, we take a look at an aspect of vernacular architecture that had flourished there before the advent of French colonial influences. A team of Lao interns takes delight in presenting five roof types that have come to characterize the way of living of our closest neighbors since time immemorial.

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The Katu

Since a very long time ago, the Katu tribe has lived together in small villages. Their houses are arranged in a circle and oriented to face one another. Each house has two entrances — one in front, the other at the rear.

The traditional Katu house is raised on piles with a thatched roof that extends to cover the front porch, balcony, and stepladders. The entire roof is covered in thatching made from dried vegetation, such as broad-leaved grasses and Ceylon oak leaves. There is an animal figurine on the ridge of the gable roof. According to tradition, the small figure is believed to have supernatural power capable of protecting the building and people living in it.

There are no room dividers of any kind. Family members live under the same roof and share the same interior living spaces. Nowadays traditional Kratu homes can be found in Sekong, Salavan, and Champasak provinces in the south of the country.

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The Akha

Homes of the Akha tribe are crafted largely of local materials, like timber and earth. Basic roof frames and support beams are fastened together using vines harvested from the natural surroundings. The gable roof is covered in thatching made from dried Ceylon oak leaves. The Akha home features extended roof eaves on all four sides, which help divert the water flow away from the building. What’s unique is that it has no windows. This and other features combine to effective protect the interior living spaces from the elements especially during winter months. The Akha tribe lives mostly in the northern country known for its temperate climates. The region includes the provinces of Phongsali, Luang Namtha, and Oudomsai.

The Akha tribe believes men and women should live separately. Thus entering the territory of the opposite gender is forbidden. That explains why room dividers are a must in the Akha home, where each gender is entitled to its own private space.
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The Oi

Similarly, homes of the Oi tribe are houses on stilts made of timber and thatched roofing. The difference lies in its interior design. The Oi house typically comes with a bedroom reserved for the married couple that live there. There is a separate space that is used either as shared bedroom or as living area for unmarried family members. The kitchen space lies also part of the interior.

The Oi house offers two balconies – one in front, the other at the rear. Tradition dictates that adult males and females live separately until they are married off. The Oi tribal is a small ethnic group living in the southern country, mostly in Phu Luang District.
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The Taliang

The Taliang tribe lives in thatched houses made of bamboo pallets in generally cooler and wet climates of the Lao PDR. That pretty much explains why their houses are windowless. Roof thatching is made from dried vegetation, such as broad-leaved grasses and Ceylon oak leaves. Unlike those of other ethnic groups, the Taliang home comes with three doorways, one on each porch. The entire family sleeps together in one big hall that is a shared bedroom. The interior offers a fireplace to keep warm during winter months.

Taliang houses are arranged in a circle similar to those of the Katu village. There is a center court where tribal ceremonies and rituals are held. The Taliang live in the hill country in southern Laos, which includes the districts of Dak Jung, Lam Mam, Thateng in Sekong and Champasak provinces.

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The Khmu

The typical Khmu house is raised on short piles only about one to two meters above ground. The front façade boasts an awning roof that protects the entire front porch from the elements. Unlike those of other ethnic groups, the Khmu house is accessible via a single set of stepladders. The Khmu thatch-roof house has no windows. The crossbeams that are parts of the roof frame also double as storage for household essentials. Exterior walls are crafted of bamboo pallets, while the interior space consists of a large bedroom, small bedroom, living room, and kitchen. Men and women gain access to the house via the single entryway.

The Khmu tribe lives in the high country about 500 meters above sea level. To avoid gusty winds on the highlands of northern and southern Laos, the Khmu have learned to keep their houses low to the ground. Interestingly enough, aerodynamic design comes naturally to them.

 

Ipoh: A Journey Back In Time

Ipoh: A Journey Back In Time

/ Ipoh, Malaysia /

/ Story: Samutcha Viraporn / English version: Bob Pitakwong /

/ Photographs: Sitthisak Namkham

Foods, retail shops, and buildings that evoke wistful affection for the past are three things that have drawn us to Ipoh. It’s nice to be back to find those gorgeous old hotels and cafes’ doing very well indeed.

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A lone Ipoh tree, its namesake, thrives in the front yard of the town’s train station. In times past, sap from the Ipoh was the main ingredient in making poison-tipped arrows that kill.
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Old meets new. Creative wall painting ideas add life to the distressed interior of an old-town cafe popular among visitors.
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A mixed variety of buns comes crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.

Ipoh is situated just 200 kilometers by car from the capital Kuala Lumpur. And it’s not just those visitors. Malaysians from across the nation are drawn here in droves.

The old town sits on the west bank of the Kinta River. Here colonial architecture abounds, the most important landmark of which is Jalan Panglima Bukit Gantang Wahab.

The white Neo-Classic piece of architecture on Club Road is dubbed Ipoh’s Taj Mahal. In front of it stands a lone Ipoh tree, the town’s namesake.

In times past, sap from the tree was used as the main ingredient in making poison-tipped arrows that kill. Cross the street, and we come before the majestic Town Hall and nearby Postal Service Building. Beautifully kept Neo-Classic details in shades of white indicate they were products of the colonial period.

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The train station is a beautiful piece of architecture. Pardon the appearances. The Majestic Hotel located inside is closed for renovation.
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A well-kept postal service building is a graceful sight across from the train station.

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The Church of St John The Divine.
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The St Michael’s Institution

The city’s main drag leads further north to the historic Church of St John The Divine. At one time, it was regarded as the largest house of worship in Malaysia when it was completed in 1912.

The structure was crafted of building materials known for the best qualities in years gone by. The exterior walls showcased bare brickwork made of coconut-shell fibers mixed with sugar and egg white to create strong binding agents.

There is a school, known as the St Michael’s Institution, standing right next to it, as well as a mosque, called Padang.

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A journey down memory lane. Well-preserved row houses line the peaceful thoroughfare of old-town Ipoh.

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Small old-styled shops dot both sides ofPanglima Lane, or Concubine Lane,famed for its cobblestone look.
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Walls covered in satirical graffiti abound in public places across town.
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One of Malaysia’s oldest restaurants, the FMS, stands graciously on the corner.
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Vine-covered shop facades speak to an unhurried lifestyle in this nostalgic part of town.

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Left: Tenaca Nasional, Malaysia’s main energy provider, also has an office here in this magnificently kept building. Right: Distressed walls along a shopping arcadeevoke nostalgic feelings on a journey down memory lane.
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Retailers showcase interesting arrays of handicraft goods on the covered passageway of Sekeping Hong Heng, an Ipoh neighborhood.

Heading south, we come to a commercial district on Jalan Sultan Yussufand Jalan Dato Maharajalela Roads. The area known for old-world charms is home to beautiful restaurants, including those dubbed the oldest of Malaysia.

There are a few Japanese-owned photo studios that have been here since the 1930s. Rumors had it that they were here to gather intelligence during those thrilling days of yesteryear. Convincingly enough, the Imperial Japanese Army came ashore in 1941.

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The Old Town White Coffee, a cafe’ chain ubiquitous across Malaysia, has its origin right here in old Ipoh.
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Downtown restaurants are packed when the day is done. There is nothing like mouthwatering collections of recipes, for which Ipoh is famous. Take-outs are available, too.
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It makes my day to drop into a local delicatessen offering Chinese-style flaky buns rich in creamy fillings, Xiang Bin.

It’s impossible not to mention the good foods that have attracted visitors to Malaysia, and Ipoh for that matter. White Coffee, the famous cafe chain, was born here.

The same applied to pomelo, dubbed the king of citrus fruits, and Chinese-style flaky buns with creamy filling. Find them at any local delicatessen. Whilst here, look for the greatest taste of the country – Hunan chicken with rice served with bean sprouts the authentic Malaysian way. It’s heaven on earth.

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A memorial in honor of war victims stands in front of the train station.

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Durian: The Irresistible King of Fruit

Durian: The Irresistible King of Fruit

/ ASEAN /

/ Story: Samutcha Viraporn / Photograph: Sitthisak Namkham, Samutcha Viraporn /

LivingASEAN proudly presents different durian cultures unique to the ASEAN region. Perhaps it’s something you have never heard of, including five interesting ways of making eating the spiky fruit more fun than you would ever imagine.

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A wall is covered with durian graffiti in Kuala Lumpur.

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The majority of durians are grown in Thailand and Malaysia with other varieties available in Indonesia. Some are also grown in the Philippines, southern Vietnam and other Southeast Asia countries.

 

Thailand
Out of more than 200 varieties of durians in Thailand, the three most sought-after are Mon Thong, Chanee, and Kan Yao.

Mon Thong (meaning “golden pillow”) comes with a sweet taste and a firm texture. Chanee is smaller in size but less sweet, softer and creamier. And Kan Yao has mild, not-so-sharp sweetness.

 

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The quality that most Thais look for in the fruit is its firmness. Durian aficionados can tell a good fruit apart from plain ones simply by knocking on the spiky skin and judging the sounds. Hollow sounds tend to indicate the fruit is too soft. In contrary, solid sounds indicate the fruit is a firm one.

Due to their pungent odor, the spiky fruits are not allowed in many places including aboard the BTS Skytrain and the MRT.

 

Malaysia
Malaysians prefer their durians to be soft and buttery. In Malaysia, the fruit is eaten within the day they are ripe and drop from the trees to the ground. It is said that the best ones are the ones that fall down in the morning.

Malaysia seems to have it all from Musang King durian puree to Musang King durian mochi to durian flavored popsicle sticks.
Malaysia seems to have it all from Musang King durian puree to Musang King durian mochi to durian flavored popsicle sticks.

 

Durian flavored cheesecakes come in the guise of a simple cupcake appearance.
Durian flavored cheesecakes come in the guise of a simple cupcake appearance.

 

There are many products made from the fruit in different, perhaps quirky, ways that are available in Malaysia. They include durian-flavored ice creams, candies, cakes, pastes, freeze-dried snacks, and a wide variety of parfaits.

 

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Indonesia
The keyword for getting a nice durian experience here is “Kampung”. In Malaysia and Indonesia, the word means “village.” So, when you visit a fruit stall, make sure to look for the “Kampung” sign. It means that the fruits are products of indigenous durian trees grown in the villages, and not from any genetically modified tree.

 

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Often you will come across durians that are either too ripe or too raw. So, one useful thing to know is not to buy a fruit that had been cut open. It is a normal practice that a “Takung Duren” (durian seller) will always select the fruit, cut it open and pass on an amount of its creamy flesh for you to taste. After that it’s your turn to decide whether to take the fruit or ask for a new one.

Well, choose wisely. We hope you all have a chance to meet your fruit soul mate!

A little note to the fruit lovers: In an unfortunate case, you may encounter an unscrupulous vendor trying to sell you a rotten or spoiled durian for high prices. No need to overreact like a buyer did in this hyperlink: http://www.straitstimes.com/asia/se-asia/unhappy-with-quality-of-durians-malaysian-man-stabs-fruit-seller-to-death. Just keep calm and buy from other stall instead.

 

Creative Ways to Eat Durian

 

Crispy freeze-dried durian makes a perfect snack. It's light and also full of nutrients. /// Malaysia
Crispy freeze-dried durian makes a perfect snack. It’s light and also full of nutrients.

 

This Hello-Kitty durian ice cream is a combination of cute and cool. /// Malaysia
This Hello-Kitty ice cream is a combination of cute and cool.

 

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Dubbed “durian pancake” or “durian crepe,” this bite-size sweet pack has loads of fresh cream wrapped inside a thin layer of durian crepe like a little golden treasure box.
Yangon / Largest Collection of Colonial Architecture in Southeast Asia

Yangon / Largest Collection of Colonial Architecture in Southeast Asia

Under British rule from 1824 to 1948, Yangon became a significant center of commerce located between India and Singapore. The streets of Yangon offer a glimpse of the opulence of the old city and its heritage. A walking tour is one way to find out.

///  Myanmar ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photos: Samutcha Viraporn

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After the second Anglo-Burmese war, Yangon was occupied by British troops.  Burma came under British rule, during which time it was declared a province of British India. The British made significant changes to the city of Yangon. In 1853, Dr. W. Montgomery and then lieutenant governor A. Fraser laid out a grid of tree-lined streets for the city of Yangon. New city planning placed the Sule Pagoda at the city center.

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After three Anglo-Burmese wars, the British in 1885 occupied all the area of present-day Myanmar. Despite the conflict, many new buildings were built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries and remained to be seen today. Some of them became government offices, embassies, the stock exchange, even shops and cafés. Others were abandoned and fell in disrepair. In 2012 the Yangon Heritage Trust was established to promote the environmental conservation of Yangon’s rich urban heritage through cohesive planning.

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The exhibition about colonial buildings in Yangon Heritage Trust office

One of the programs undertaken by the Trust is the Heritage Walking Tour through downtown areas. People who love architecture can visit the Yangon Heritage Trust office on Pansodan Street. There is an exhibition going along with   useful information about six routes for sightseeing. They are outlined in brochures. If time is not on your side, Living ASEAN recommends a shorter route as an option. The starting point is on Pansodan Street.  Start your journey on foot from here. Turn left into Merchant Road, then another left on to Sule Pagoda Road.  Soon you will come to Strand Road (See this route on the map). Give it two hours or a little more than that, and you witness a lot of Yangon’s glorious past and beautiful heritage. Need a break? Drop into the beautiful Rangoon Tea House for refreshments, or the coffee shop at the Strand Hotel. After a couple of hours on the road, coffee smells like heaven!

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You can find some design items at Hla Day shop
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Take a seat at Rangoon Tea House

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Link: www.yangonheritagetrust.org/home

 

Vann Molyvann: The Forgotten Masterpieces of Phnom Penh

Vann Molyvann: The Forgotten Masterpieces of Phnom Penh

/ Phnom Penh, Cambodia /

/ Story: Jeremiah Pitakwong / Photographs: Samutcha Viraporn, Damrong Leewairoj /

There is more to Cambodia than Angkor Wat. Phnom Penh itself is a city with a legacy from its glorious days. Many may have lost in time. But some remain; including the architectural buildings designed by Vann Molyvann.

The Royal University of Phnom Penh's library building. Exterior pillars support the building weight (no pillars inside). The building is surrounded by a pond containing raindrops from a gutter.
The Royal University of Phnom Penh’s library building is surrounded by a pond. The building weight relies mainly on the exterior pillar.

 

The Institute of Foreign Languages's meeting room. The floor is elevated and the roof helps tackle with the heat.
The Institute of Foreign Languages’s meeting room. The floor is elevated and the roof helps tackle with the heat.

Phnom Penh is equipped with a great city-planning. Temples and palaces in the city have a hint of Southeast Asian style component incorporated with French colonial architecture. Although parts of these heritages are deteriorated, their good old days can still shone through.

Among high-rise buildings and growing villages indicating Cambodia’s improving economy, old and valuable buildings are neglected as the government and foreign investors prefer the “Modern” which suggests “Prosperity” rather than renovating its old ones.

However, old doesn’t mean out. Vann Molyvann, has designed “Modern” principal buildings since the 1960s.

Vann Molyvann was born in 1926. He was granted the scholarship from Cambodian government to study architecture at Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts in France, where many modern architects are nurtured.  After the graduation, he served as a State Architect in 1956 and also played an important role for a period.

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The lifted walkway in the back gives a shade to the pathway below.
Details of light boxes a roof and a facade of the Institute of Foreign Languages group of buildings
Details of light boxes a roof and a facade of the Institute of Foreign Languages group of buildings

His significant works was designed and built within 1974; The National Theater (later torn down), the National Sports Complex (a.k.a. Olympic Stadium), the Institute of Foreign Languages inside the Royal University of Phnom Penh, Chaktomuk Conference Hall (renovated). All of his works could be considered as modern and would definitely be treated as national treasures if they were in Europe.

Since the government policies regarding these building are unknown, their futures are uncertain. For those who have an urge for a modern building, a quick sightseeing trip to the remaining site is highly recommended. Also, don’t forget to check out www.ka-tours.org where you can book a private architecture tour in Cambodia conducted by Cambodian architecture students.

The exterior of the National Sports Complex.
The exterior of the National Sports Complex.

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A yellow transparent fiberglass partition at the entrance and a gutter below.
A yellow transparent fiberglass partition at the entrance and a gutter below.

 

Vann Molyvann has designed a proper ventilation system for a tropical climate.
Vann Molyvann has designed a proper ventilation system for a tropical climate.

 

An area inside the stadium and a press observation deck overlooks the amphitheater.
An area inside the stadium and a press observation deck overlooks the amphitheater.

 

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Details of the indoor stadium roof.
Details of the indoor stadium roof.

At the age of 89, Van Molyvann has returned from his fugitive in France and now living in Siam Reap. While many might have already forgotten about his iconic buildings, it is safe to say his pages in the history will never be erased.

The Splendors of Myanmar’s Botanical Gardens

The Splendors of Myanmar’s Botanical Gardens

Speaking of ecotourism, Myanmar offers vast, well-protected parklands that no nature lovers can afford to overlook. The National Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens promise to be a pleasant surprise that all present will long remember. 

/// Myanmar /// 

Story: Panchat Changchan /// Photo: Rithirong Chanthongsuk 

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Myanmar, also known as the “Land of pagodas,” is rich in cultural heritage sites and vast parklands well worth a visit. Among them, the National Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens are cherished by the eco travelers. The vast parklands are located at 1,000 meters above sea level at the town of Pyin Oo Lwin, some 70 km by road from Mandalay.

At 177 hectares (1,106 Rai), the Botanical Gardens have been in existence since 1915. They were founded by British forests officer Alex Rodger, and Lady Cuff, a botanist. The parklands started small as a vacation town and the summer capital of British Burma during the colonial period. They expanded in recent years and reached the current size in 2000.

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Kandawgyi is home to a bewildering array of flora and fauna indigenous to Myanmar’s alpine region. The native plant life includes many species of bamboo, crotons, hundreds of species of orchids, trees, and herbs. A walk in the park is pleasant, and chances are you will come across blooming Wild Himalayan Cherries along the way. It is a wonderful nature reserve for those interested in the interactions among organisms and the environment, which includes swamps, forests, lakes, beautiful botanical gardens, and homes to wetland birds.

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For those inspired by a passion for flowering plants and scenery, Kandawgyi offers blooming fields at various places throughout in the park. Hop a ride on board the horse-drawn carriage for a sightseeing tour. It’s one of several unique features of the Botanical Gardens. There are several vista points to take in mountain views and gaze in awe at towering pine trees along the road.

 

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Many natural splendors have transformed the National Kandawgyi Botanical Gardens into an impressive countryside in Myanmar. For the eco-adventurers, these vast parklands promise to be an experience they will long remember.

Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Kandawgyi_Botanical_Gardens

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