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50 Years of Proof of the 100 Houses Project // When Traditional Khmer is Mixed with Modernism by Vann Molyvann

50 Years of Proof of the 100 Houses Project // When Traditional Khmer is Mixed with Modernism by Vann Molyvann

Bringing the design concepts of  Le Corbusier to Cambodia, the legendary architect Vann Molyvann completed his 100 Houses Project in 1967. 50 years on, what do we see there now?

/// Cambodia ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photography: Sitthisak Namkham

 

The original structures of some abandoned 100 Houses homes remain: raised floors, kitchen chimneys, etc.
Time and neglect leave their marks. Left: living room; right: bedroom
Original stairway and metal railing

Before the Khmer Rouge period, Vann Molyvann was Cambodian architecture’s biggest star. After receiving a 1946 scholarship and studying in France he returned as Cambodia’s National Architect, combining modernist with traditional Cambodian design to produce such grand works as the Chaktomuk Conference Hall, Olympic National Sports Complex, Institute of Foreign Languages, and the “100 Houses Project,” designed as employee housing for The National Bank of Cambodia at Phnom Penh. “100 Houses” was started in 1965 and completed in 1967.

Typically a Project house is a concrete structure holding a large living room and bedroom, raised above the ground with a 7.2 meter span between support posts. Floor, door and window frames, and roof frame are of wood. The roof has a Cambodian-style slant, and for good ventilation, windows reach almost to the ceiling. Kitchen and bathroom are built separate from the main house.

Cambodian family house where Martin Aerne lives
Stairway and entrance gate

After the Khmer Rouge takeover and the massive changes it brought, Vann Molyvann moved to Switzerland. Many of his creations such as this project were abandoned and overgrown, or randomly preempted by new occupants. Living ASEAN recently visited Tuk Thla district to find out how the village looked after all this time, and met Martin Aerne, Swiss architect and teacher, who now lives in one of the “100 Houses.”

Martin Aerne’s living room becomes an architectural office
Bathroom and kitchen section separate from main house
Corner of living room, leading into bedroom
Green space. Tall windows. Houses arranged to catch the breeze and not block each other’s views.

Martin Aerne tells us about coming to Cambodia, meeting Vann Molyvann, and discussing how to preserve works from the age of New Khmer Architecture. This prompted him to rent a space and open an architecture office on the upper floor of a Cambodian family home.

Martin notes that for privacy, homes in the Project are designed with alternating levels. Bedroom windows of one house aren’t open to view from the  next. The porch of one house looks out on the garden of another. And even with no common garden, there’s green everywhere.

Martin Aerne, architect and architecture instructor in Phnom Penh
Martin Aerne’s residence

Not many of the old-style houses remain: new owners have demolished them, rebuilt, or added on willy-nilly with no thought to historical value. Two or three abandoned houses from the original project are fortunately still here, since even in their ramshackle state they’re a great aid for studying Vann Molyvann’s amazing work from the 50s  and 60s, of which on a 1967 visit Singapore’s Prime Minister Lee Kuan Yew said, “I hope, one day, my city will look like this.

Most homes in the 100 Houses Project have been demolished, added onto, or rebuilt
Blueprint of original house: http://www.vannmolyvannproject.org

Link: http://www.vannmolyvannproject.org

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Most Inexpensive Michelin-starred Restaurant Opens Thailand Branch

Most Inexpensive Michelin-starred Restaurant Opens Thailand Branch

In a new challenge for the celebrated “hero of street food,” today Singapore’s Liao Fan Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle, the cheapest restaurant in the world to achieve a starred Michelin rating, is opening a Thailand branch in the Asoke area of Bangkok.

/// Thailand / Singapore ///
Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// Photography: Sitthisak Namkham

 

Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle in Chinatown Food Complex

From the outside, Singapore’s Chinatown Food Complex doesn’t look like anything special; but in 2016 its own “Hawker Chan,” a food stall specializing in Singapore-style chicken rice, brought a lot of buzz to the gourmet world by receiving a Michelin star, immediately becoming the cheapest  Michelin-starred restaurant in the world. Already popular, the shop experienced such an increase in customer volume that chef/owner Chan Hon Meng decided to expand into a second branch. This is now tucked away on Smith Street, an alley across from the food center, under the name “Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle.” Branch number three quickly followed in the form of an air-conditioned restaurant on Teng Street, just outside the Chinatown Food Complex. Meals there are a bit more expensive: instead of 2 Singapore dollars per plate, chicken rice is priced at 3.8 dollars.

Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle on Smith street
Liao Fan Hon Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice & Noodle on Smith street

  After a lifetime of hard and conscientious work, chef/owner Chan Hong Meng himself is now known as “the hero of street food” in Singapore. His shop’s popularity has grown so much that customers have to wait in a long line that snakes all around the food center.

Hawker Chan in Bangkok / Photo: Samutcha Viraporn
Hawker Chan in Bangkok / Photo: Samutcha Viraporn

The added branches helped to accommodate customer volume, but it wasn’t long at all before the Hawker Chan name went international. Now the Terminal 21 trade center in Thailand hosts the latest branch, an eatery with the slogan “World’s First Michelin-starred Street Food Stall” still featuring the same basic menu as the Singapore shops: chicken with rice or egg noodles, chicken with char siu, crispy pork, and pork ribs.


 

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The Quality of Life Index in the ASEAN for 2017

The Quality of Life Index in the ASEAN for 2017

The Quality of Life Index measures which city provides the best opportunities for health, safety, and good living for the year ahead. Singapore no doubt ranks the highest in the ASEAN, while Jakarta and Bangkok take distant second and third places, respectively. Let’s see how cities across the Region fare in the bigger picture and what can be done to improve life quality.

/// ASEAN ///

 

Numbeo is the world’s largest database of user contributed data about cities and countries worldwide. Its latest survey and rating statistics showed Singapore topped the index as the country with the highest quality of life in the ASEAN Region, followed by Jakarta and Bangkok in distant second and third places, respectively. Manila fared badly at the bottom of the ranking whereas Laos, Myanmar and Brunei didn’t make the cut for lack of information in the database.

Street walkway in Singapore

The QLI is a composite criterion used to rank cities. It looks into the costs of living and purchasing power, safety, affordability of housing, pollution, crime rates, health system quality and time spent on daily commutes. According to the survey, Singapore is the safest city in the ASEAN. It scores 83.26 on the safety index, 86.32 on the costs of living index. Jakarta takes a distant second place scoring 47.51 on the costs of living, and 46.90 on safety.

However, the people in Jakarta perform much better in the area of wellness scoring 62.99 on the health care index. Jakarta fares badly in terms of purchasing power scoring a low 35.97 compared with 92.91 in Singapore.

BTS skytrain in Bangkok

In parts of Bangkok, people are facing multiple health problems with the pollution index remaining high at 73.88.  The city scores a high 81.47 on the health care index, a low 51.25 on the costs of living index, and a very low 43.12 on the purchasing power index. It fares badly at 49.81 on the traffic commute time index.

The Numbeo survey puts Manila at the bottom of the Quality of Life Index with a low 41.32 on the costs of living, 43.16 on purchasing power, and 39.65 on safety. The pollution index for Manila is very high at 92.01 while the traffic commute index is also high at 55.72.

Meanwhile in Europe, Vienna ranks the highest in the World Quality of Life Index. Numbeo statistics show Vienna scoring a whopping 193.79 out of 200 in the quality of life, which is very high. It also performs brilliantly in safety, health care, and the property price to income ratio index.

 

Link :https://www.numbeo.com/quality-of-life/

 

 

Which is the real Pad Thai?

Which is the real Pad Thai?

Pad Thai is one of Thailand’s best-known dishes. What’s not so well known is that some noodles sold to tourists under that name isn’t Pad Thai at all, and this is especially true with what you’re liable to find sold from cart vendors around Khao San Road. Let’s take a look at what Pad Thai is really all about.

/// Thailand ///

Story: Samutcha Viraporn /// English Version: Peter Montalbano /// Photography: Rithirong Chanthongsuk, Supawan Sa-ard

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Pad Thai at a famous restaurant it the Pratu Phi district. Here, it’s said, the prime minister who invented the dish came to eat and gave the taste a big “thumbs up.”

In fact 99% of the restaurants in Thailand sell authentic Pad Thai with only slightly varying recipes, and all with the same ingredients. The basic recipe calls for kuai tiao rice noodles stir-fried with tofu, chopped garlic chive, chopped sweet radish, dried shrimp, bean sprout, flavored with mandarin juice, sugar, and roasted peanuts, and eaten with fresh vegetables like garlic chive, raw bean sprout, and banana blossom. Another very popular variation includes the addition of big shrimp into the stir-fry mix. Pad Thai sold from Khao San tourist area carts, though, has quite a different taste. If you gave some of that to a Thai, that person might say, “this is actually pad si iw (soya-flavored stir-fry) with skinny noodles, more like.”

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Cart selling Pad Thai along Khao San Road. Look, the cook is a foreigner!
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Some cart vendors offer a variety of noodle types to chose from.

Of course, if you aren’t yourself too familiar with Pad Thai you probably won’t suffer much, because whatever noodle dish it is probably won’t taste too horrible, but if you’re looking for the real thing, this is not Pad Thai. Starting off with the flavor, they use dark soy sauce instead of the delicate tamarind juice with its hidden sour and sweet flavor. They follow up by putting cabbage, khana (Chinese kale), and carrots instead of those pungently fragrant garlic chive leaves. Done that way, Pad Thai becomes a completely different kind of stir-fried noodles.

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Fresh shrimp Pad Thai adds large shrimp, and the tamarind sauce/shrimp oil combination gives the noodles a more reddish tint.
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False Pad Thai. This has a very salty and oily taste, and also uses the wrong vegetables.

So, then, what is that real Pad Thai all about? In the early days of the Thai republic, around World War II, Field Marshal Plaek Phibunsongkhram was Prime Minister, and he wanted to create a Thai dish which would express Thai national identity. The following video clip, produced by the Thai Tourism Authority, does a good job explaining the origin and composition of Pad Thai:

 

Link: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thai_cuisine

The Colonial Style in Cambodia

The Colonial Style in Cambodia

The colonial style is apparent, but most of the buildings were designed with appropriate adaptations to fit in with the hot and humid climate.

/ Phnom Penh, Cambodia /

/ Story & Photograph: Virak Roeun /

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The “Place de la Poste” Square with the Cambodia Post building in background
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Neoclassical features on the front façade of Cambodia Post Building

The French colonial style of architecture is apparent, but most of the buildings were designed with appropriate adaptations to fit in with the hot and humid climate. They included design features, décor ideas, and ornaments well suited for the local environment, examples of which are obvious on the façade of the Postal Service Building. Built in 1895, Cambodia Post showcases wooden louver windows and doors, high ceilings and solid brick walls designed to keep the heat out. Opposite it stands the former Hotel Manolis, where Monsieur André Malraux, a celebrated novelist and first minister of culture of France, stayed in the 1920s. Since 1979 it has become a private residence. The Cambodia Post building looks extraordinarily good on a grand scale, but the abandoned Central Police Commissariat nearby is probably more elaborate in design. Its exterior appears to be neglected, but inside, the corridors and the rooms are never directly exposed to the elements and the heat.

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The former Hotel Manolis exhibits an architectural style prevalent during the French colonial era.
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Terraced houses reminiscent of old-world Europe lie opposite the Manolis.
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An original wooden staircase inside the Manolis
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A room number plate stands the test of time at the former hotel Manolis.
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The former water tank of the hotel Manolis
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Original tile flooring at the Manolis tells a story of its long and arduous journey through time.
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Vendors set up shop in front of the abandoned Central Police Commissariat in Phnom Penh.
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Mirror images of design details are evident throughout this building from colonial era.

 

 

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The entrance to the former Bank of Indochina

Le Bibliotheque, Cambodia’s national library is situated on Daun Penh Avenue, next to the luxurious Raffles Hotel Le Royal. The sights of beautifully crafted columns, porticos, and pediments evoke images of French neoclassical architecture in years past. Adapted to blend well in a new environment, the library building showcases locally inspired ornamentation rather than Greek influences. There are also traces of styles that characterize Art Deco architecture that followed in later periods, examples of which included reinforced concrete buildings adapted for better ventilation. The Psar Thmei, or Central Market is one of them. The market is not only interesting in terms of design, but has always been a vibrant and bustling commercial address right to this day.

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The National Library
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The Bibliotheque showcases French neoclassical architecture adapted to include locally inspired ornamentation on every column.
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The Royal Railway Station
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Parabolic arches built of reinforced concrete support the passenger terminal at the train station.
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The railway platform awaits the arrival of the next train.
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An entryway to the Psar Thmei central market
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Shop fronts before opening hours
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Oculus design culminates at the apex of the dome protecting the Psar Thmei central market.

The walking map of central Phnom Penh by KATours, a non-profit organization, is downloadable online here. Give it a try next time you are in Phnom Penh. It’s really useful if you like these buildings and their past glory days.

Reference

  • The History of Cambodia, From the French Colonial Period until the Present Day, Part 1 by Vandy Kaonn
  • The French Presence in Cochinchina and Cambodia by Milton E. Osborne
  • Modern Khmer Cities by Vann Molyvann
  • KATours internal documents describing the Post Office by Ester van der Laan
  • The Phnom Penh Map in the 1920s from the Library of Congress
  • The Master Plan of Phnom Penh 1925
10 Delicious Malay Dishes You Must Try

10 Delicious Malay Dishes You Must Try

The Malay kitchen is often overflowing with heavenly scents and beautifully complex flavours, thanks to the vast range of fresh herbs and spices used in most of its dishes. Generally hearty and wholesome, Malay dishes are the ultimate comfort food with a spicy twist. Its beautiful flavours are best showcased by these 10 iconic dishes:

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Nasi Lemak

This national dish has a special place in every Malaysian’s heart and for good reason: the coconut milk-infused rice is the perfect mix of flavours and textures when paired with its staple sides: spicy sambal, hard-boiled egg, fried anchovies, peanuts, and cucumbers. You’ll see this dish being served at any time of the day, from breakfast all the way until 3 a.m. suppers.

 

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Mee Rebus

This comforting bowlful of blanched yellow noodles is especially loved for its rich stew-like gravy, made from sweet potatoes, beef stock, and an intricate mix of herbs and spices. Top it all off with some fried tofu, fresh green chillies and a refreshing spritz of lime and you’re good to go!

 

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Satay

These marinated meats on sticks are roasted over charcoal to get its signature smoky flavour. Having satay is not complete without a side chunky peanut sauce, rice cubes, cucumber, and fresh onions. Most places serve beef and chicken versions, but you could get more exotic meats like venison and rabbit at more dedicated satay stalls.

 

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Ayam Kampung

The Malay take on fried chicken uses spring chicken that is deep-fried to a crisp and savoured simply with white rice, raw vegetables, and some hearty curry. This simple yet unbelievably satisfying dish is mostly served for lunch.

 

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Asam Pedas

This highly popular dish in the Southern states of Johor and Melaka is at its best when the spicy-sour balance is just right. The kesum leaves and torch ginger flowers are often used to give the gravy its signature fragrant scent. This dish is almost always cooked with stingray, although sometimes chicken or fatty beef is used instead.

 

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Nasi Kerabu

The rice gets its trademark blue hue from butterfly-pea flowers and is usually served with ayam percik (grilled chicken topped with spiced coconut gravy). The richness of the dish is beautifully contrasted with fresh, raw ingredients like long beans, cucumbers, and cabbage. Some salted egg adds a little extra flavour to this colourful dish.

 

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Roti Jala

Watching Roti Jala being made is mesmerising in itself; the turmeric-infused batter is drizzled on a hot griddle until cooked, and the web-like crepe is rolled to form its distinct look. They are best eaten with a side of thick chicken curry. You can have these as desserts too, by pairing them with a creamy durian dip.

 

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Laksa Johor

Laksa, which generally refers to rice noodles served in a fish-based gravy, has various interpretations according to the different states in Malaysia. The Johoreans are famous for their own take on this classic dish; savour its chunky gravy with flaked mackerel, ladled over spaghetti and topped with shredded cucumber, onions, kesum leaves, sambal, and lime. Although it’s a noodle dish, it’s traditionally eaten by hand.

 

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Masak Lemak

This instantly-recognisable dish, with its trademark yellow hue, is ever-present at any Malay restaurant. Made from freshly-ground turmeric, this decadent gravy uses bird’s eye chillies to offset the creaminess of the coconut milk. It’s usually served with white rice but one sip of this flavourful dish and you may be tempted to have it on its own.

 

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Nasi Goreng Kampung

This wok-fried rice dish packs a punch with its distinctive flavour – the rice is cooked with anchovies, shrimp paste and water spinach – and is never complete without a sunny side up! Just like the Nasi Lemak, this crowd favourite is a common choice regardless of the time of the day.

Five Roof Types in Laos: Vernacular Architecture in Perspective

Five Roof Types in Laos: Vernacular Architecture in Perspective

Laos, officially the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, is one of ten ASEAN members. There is more to Laos than Luang Prabang, the beautiful old city and World Heritage site. The country is also known for beautiful culture, unique traditions, and pristine landscape.

Story: Thanavoud Inthasone, Xaysomvang Philavong, Souksavanh Vongchandy /// Illustrations: Thanavoud Inthasone /// Editors: Thassareeya Songpao, Witchayapha Boonpha

In this episode, we take a look at an aspect of vernacular architecture that had flourished there before the advent of French colonial influences. A team of Lao interns takes delight in presenting five roof types that have come to characterize the way of living of our closest neighbors since time immemorial.

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The Katu

Since a very long time ago, the Katu tribe has lived together in small villages. Their houses are arranged in a circle and oriented to face one another. Each house has two entrances — one in front, the other at the rear.

The traditional Katu house is raised on piles with a thatched roof that extends to cover the front porch, balcony, and stepladders. The entire roof is covered in thatching made from dried vegetation, such as broad-leaved grasses and Ceylon oak leaves. There is an animal figurine on the ridge of the gable roof. According to tradition, the small figure is believed to have supernatural power capable of protecting the building and people living in it.

There are no room dividers of any kind. Family members live under the same roof and share the same interior living spaces. Nowadays traditional Kratu homes can be found in Sekong, Salavan, and Champasak provinces in the south of the country.

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The Akha

Homes of the Akha tribe are crafted largely of local materials, like timber and earth. Basic roof frames and support beams are fastened together using vines harvested from the natural surroundings. The gable roof is covered in thatching made from dried Ceylon oak leaves. The Akha home features extended roof eaves on all four sides, which help divert the water flow away from the building. What’s unique is that it has no windows. This and other features combine to effective protect the interior living spaces from the elements especially during winter months. The Akha tribe lives mostly in the northern country known for its temperate climates. The region includes the provinces of Phongsali, Luang Namtha, and Oudomsai.

The Akha tribe believes men and women should live separately. Thus entering the territory of the opposite gender is forbidden. That explains why room dividers are a must in the Akha home, where each gender is entitled to its own private space.
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The Oi

Similarly, homes of the Oi tribe are houses on stilts made of timber and thatched roofing. The difference lies in its interior design. The Oi house typically comes with a bedroom reserved for the married couple that live there. There is a separate space that is used either as shared bedroom or as living area for unmarried family members. The kitchen space lies also part of the interior.

The Oi house offers two balconies – one in front, the other at the rear. Tradition dictates that adult males and females live separately until they are married off. The Oi tribal is a small ethnic group living in the southern country, mostly in Phu Luang District.
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The Taliang

The Taliang tribe lives in thatched houses made of bamboo pallets in generally cooler and wet climates of the Lao PDR. That pretty much explains why their houses are windowless. Roof thatching is made from dried vegetation, such as broad-leaved grasses and Ceylon oak leaves. Unlike those of other ethnic groups, the Taliang home comes with three doorways, one on each porch. The entire family sleeps together in one big hall that is a shared bedroom. The interior offers a fireplace to keep warm during winter months.

Taliang houses are arranged in a circle similar to those of the Katu village. There is a center court where tribal ceremonies and rituals are held. The Taliang live in the hill country in southern Laos, which includes the districts of Dak Jung, Lam Mam, Thateng in Sekong and Champasak provinces.

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The Khmu

The typical Khmu house is raised on short piles only about one to two meters above ground. The front façade boasts an awning roof that protects the entire front porch from the elements. Unlike those of other ethnic groups, the Khmu house is accessible via a single set of stepladders. The Khmu thatch-roof house has no windows. The crossbeams that are parts of the roof frame also double as storage for household essentials. Exterior walls are crafted of bamboo pallets, while the interior space consists of a large bedroom, small bedroom, living room, and kitchen. Men and women gain access to the house via the single entryway.

The Khmu tribe lives in the high country about 500 meters above sea level. To avoid gusty winds on the highlands of northern and southern Laos, the Khmu have learned to keep their houses low to the ground. Interestingly enough, aerodynamic design comes naturally to them.

 

Durian: The Irresistible King of Fruit

Durian: The Irresistible King of Fruit

/ ASEAN /

/ Story: Samutcha Viraporn / Photograph: Sitthisak Namkham, Samutcha Viraporn /

LivingASEAN proudly presents different durian cultures unique to the ASEAN region. Perhaps it’s something you have never heard of, including five interesting ways of making eating the spiky fruit more fun than you would ever imagine.

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A wall is covered with durian graffiti in Kuala Lumpur.

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The majority of durians are grown in Thailand and Malaysia with other varieties available in Indonesia. Some are also grown in the Philippines, southern Vietnam and other Southeast Asia countries.

 

Thailand
Out of more than 200 varieties of durians in Thailand, the three most sought-after are Mon Thong, Chanee, and Kan Yao.

Mon Thong (meaning “golden pillow”) comes with a sweet taste and a firm texture. Chanee is smaller in size but less sweet, softer and creamier. And Kan Yao has mild, not-so-sharp sweetness.

 

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The quality that most Thais look for in the fruit is its firmness. Durian aficionados can tell a good fruit apart from plain ones simply by knocking on the spiky skin and judging the sounds. Hollow sounds tend to indicate the fruit is too soft. In contrary, solid sounds indicate the fruit is a firm one.

Due to their pungent odor, the spiky fruits are not allowed in many places including aboard the BTS Skytrain and the MRT.

 

Malaysia
Malaysians prefer their durians to be soft and buttery. In Malaysia, the fruit is eaten within the day they are ripe and drop from the trees to the ground. It is said that the best ones are the ones that fall down in the morning.

Malaysia seems to have it all from Musang King durian puree to Musang King durian mochi to durian flavored popsicle sticks.
Malaysia seems to have it all from Musang King durian puree to Musang King durian mochi to durian flavored popsicle sticks.

 

Durian flavored cheesecakes come in the guise of a simple cupcake appearance.
Durian flavored cheesecakes come in the guise of a simple cupcake appearance.

 

There are many products made from the fruit in different, perhaps quirky, ways that are available in Malaysia. They include durian-flavored ice creams, candies, cakes, pastes, freeze-dried snacks, and a wide variety of parfaits.

 

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Indonesia
The keyword for getting a nice durian experience here is “Kampung”. In Malaysia and Indonesia, the word means “village.” So, when you visit a fruit stall, make sure to look for the “Kampung” sign. It means that the fruits are products of indigenous durian trees grown in the villages, and not from any genetically modified tree.

 

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Often you will come across durians that are either too ripe or too raw. So, one useful thing to know is not to buy a fruit that had been cut open. It is a normal practice that a “Takung Duren” (durian seller) will always select the fruit, cut it open and pass on an amount of its creamy flesh for you to taste. After that it’s your turn to decide whether to take the fruit or ask for a new one.

Well, choose wisely. We hope you all have a chance to meet your fruit soul mate!

A little note to the fruit lovers: In an unfortunate case, you may encounter an unscrupulous vendor trying to sell you a rotten or spoiled durian for high prices. No need to overreact like a buyer did in this hyperlink: http://www.straitstimes.com/asia/se-asia/unhappy-with-quality-of-durians-malaysian-man-stabs-fruit-seller-to-death. Just keep calm and buy from other stall instead.

 

Creative Ways to Eat Durian

 

Crispy freeze-dried durian makes a perfect snack. It's light and also full of nutrients. /// Malaysia
Crispy freeze-dried durian makes a perfect snack. It’s light and also full of nutrients.

 

This Hello-Kitty durian ice cream is a combination of cute and cool. /// Malaysia
This Hello-Kitty ice cream is a combination of cute and cool.

 

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Dubbed “durian pancake” or “durian crepe,” this bite-size sweet pack has loads of fresh cream wrapped inside a thin layer of durian crepe like a little golden treasure box.
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