The historic business hub of Bangkok is on CNN’s List of “Best Districts for Street Food” and “Top Ten Chinatowns in the World”. Whether it be fine dining or quick one-dish dinners, you can find some of the best meals in Yaowarat. Combine your favorite pastimes into one-day adventure. Living ASEAN recommends stopping by these places.
/// THAILAND ///
9:00 Coffee at Ama Hostel
Start your day at Ama Hostel Bangkok, a recently renovated Chinese style building located at 191 Soi Sapanhan off Chakkrawat Road in Samphanthawong area. The café in the forward section of the hostel offers coffee that smells so good. There’s nothing like the warm aroma of a steaming cup of coffee to wake you up to a beautiful day in old Chinatown. Nearby, push cart vendors serve delicious Kuichai meals and Kuay Jub noodes.
10:00 Shop at Sampeng Market and Yaowarat
A stone’s throw away from Ama Hostel stands Sampeng Market, a shopper’s paradise for goods at bargain prices, both retail and wholesale. The area is well known for many gift shops and stores selling fabrics, clothing and accessories, toys and seasonal decorating materials. Follow Chakkrawat Road and you come to Yaowarat Road.
12:00 Lunch at the Canton House
Enjoy the pleasure of authentic Chinese food at the Canton House. Established in 1908, the restaurant has since been renovated to give it unique appeal characterized by raw construction materials. The Canton House is located at 530 Yaowarat Road, Samphanthawong area. You will love the bite-sized Dim Sum in steamer baskets, steamed pork rib with black bean sauce, and fried Mantou (buns) with condensed milk. Thai and Western meals are also on the menu.
13:00 Wat Leng Noei Yi
The historic Wat Leng Noei Yi is rooted deeply in this community of Thai citizens of Chinese descent. Founded in 1871, the temple has been involved in every facet of life of the followers of Buddhism. It sees the busiest time during the period leading to Chinese New Year celebrations. Slowly burning joss sticks are used in paying tribute to the Lord Buddha. It’s good idea to avoid getting smoke in your eyes.
14:00 Jay Noi’s Kuichai Meal
About 250 meters to the right of Wat Leng Noei Yi stands a famous push-cart business selling fried Kuichai meals. Jay Noi’s Kuichai is renowned for being one of the most delicious vegetable meals in Yaowarat. Located on Charoen Krung Road, the humble push cart vendor sells Kuichai at 10 Baht apiece. The menu also includes fried Taro and Jicama (a globe shaped root vegetable). They are equally delightful.
15:00 Cakes at Wallflowers Café
Beat the heat in the afternoon with yummy mouthwatering cakes served with frothy Thai tea with cheese. Located at 31-33 Soi Nana, Pom Prab area, Wallflowers Café sits on the upper floor of a florist’s shop, which provides inspiration for many beautiful items on its menu. The café is owned and operated by an architect who has great interest in the art of coffee making.
We have seen many Chinese-style homes built on ground level. This one sits on higher ground. Naturally, it is more difficult to build a home on a slope. But the homeowner decided to give it a go to this land in Phuket.
One of the hallway walls is covered in Chinese calligraphic tiles imported from China. The pieces demonstrate the evolution of one word – “Fu” meaning wealth.
The property spans across a land of almost an acre. The 5-unit complex is based on an O-shaped plan with the main villa at the center surrounded by single-story annexes scattered across the landscape. Inspired by arcade designs, a garden pathway runs along the edges of the roof providing access to all units.
According to Voranuch Saencharoen who owns the place, a grassy hill at the center court reflect traditional Chinese wisdom. “The house was originally belonged to a Western gentleman and his wife. At that time, the land was half an acre. When we bought the place, a Feng Shui master recommended us to expand the space to an adjacent land.”
The main villa on the hilltop looks out over the contoured landscape with the bedroom annex for children to the left. The lush courtyard with tall trees descends slightly to other parts of the residential complex.
Kanit Tantiwong, a friend of the family, was responsible for the design. He initially came up with a beautiful Modern Balinese design, but the owner insisted on going the Sino-Portuguese style. Most of Sino-Portugese buildings are shophouses, not detached house. As a result, the designer and the homeowner had to do a lot of research.
As the construction got underway, Voranuch was seeking for materials from both inbound and abroad. “To me, building this house is also an experience to learn new things. For example, I learned that white plaster was used in the old days to cover wall cracks but it’s sensitive to humidity. So, I had to search for a solution and finally found one.”
Voranuch took care of the décor, while her other half, Thanawat Surachetkhomson was responsible for the structural enhancement and construction. Antique Chinese-style door panels were assembled from various origins, including Phuket, Bangkok, and Chiang Mai. The roof was inspired by ancient Korean homes, which in turn was influenced by Chinese architecture. The roof tiles were custom made in Thailand, with some tweaks in design. A vintage-looking charcoal stove was inspired by one of Voranuch’s trip to Phuket Museum. Only this one is using gas instead of charcoal.
A floor-to-ceiling glass opening allows natural light into the workspace. The office door is an old Chinese-style panel.Equipped with modern furniture, the living room differs from other interior spaces. Running-bond brick walls add a vintage feel.
Above all, seems like the charm of chinoiserie-style lies in the house’s old-fashioned doors and window. Ceiling-height windows were equipped with plantation shutters at the top and ventilation grids were added where necessary, creating a good balance between the old and the new.
A sundeck and a veranda stretching from the main villa surrounded by an infinity pool in the backyard.
The wood-crafted door and windows with elaborate details of Sino-Portuguese characters.
/ Story: Supachart Boontang / English version: Bob Pitakwong /
/ Photographs: Soopakorn Srisakul and Arsom Arch Community and Environment Co., Ltd. A division of the Arsom Silp Institute of the Arts /
This urban home named “Baan Gongsi” is beautifully crafted in keeping with Chinese heritage in architecture mixed with defining features that are characteristic of the traditional Thai-style home. The perfect visual blend is the brainchild of Pongsakorn Tumprueksa and Nattanan Pokinpitak of the Arsom Silp Institute of the Arts.
The two-story home that’s the main villa on the property features large double doors providing a grand entrance and promoting natural air circulation. In every part of the house, passive design strategies create a comfortable and energy-efficient indoor environment, and hence there’s no need for mechanical air conditioning. The bottom line is heat doesn’t build up inside it.
Architecturally, it’s a well-thought-out design that seeks reconnections with nature at home and, at the same time, keeps family heritage alive. Homeowners Thianchai and Noree Niyom, both of them of Chinese descent, want to live simply and traditionally, embracing a lifestyle that values a culture of sharing and caring.
Thianchai’s sister also lives nearby in the same compound, which explains the concept of Baan Gongsi, a colloquialism for extended family living arrangements.
A garden slate walkway leads to an elevated pool hemmed in by Applied Chinese architecture. The tiled roofs with slightly upturned eaves evoke memories of a style that first became standard during the Song Dynasty. It makes the main building and surrounding annexes feel lightweight and delightfully charming.The center court pool stretches across the entire length of the veranda. It provides plenty of room for exercise. Meantime, the interior spaces are kept cool by breezes blowing in over the pool.
At the same time, it’s a design that embraces elegance in architectural aesthetics. There’s a courtyard with swimming pool at the center of the house topped by tiled roofs with curved sides. A striking feature of Chinese style, the unroofed area enclosed by the buildings doubles as engine that drives natural air circulation keeping the home cool and comfortable round the clock.
The well-conceived design also ensures the building fits in well with the hot and humid climate prevailing in this region. Speaking of a fusion between two cultures, there’s a large open-air platform that provides easy access to all the rooms, a layout quintessential of Thai-style cluster homes in the past. The Thais call it a “chaan” meaning a gallery or semi-outdoor room overlooking the garden.
The main villa and nearby annexes are disposed around the center courtyard. The sprawling design allows a healthy dose of morning sun to pour into the interior living spaces. In the nighttime the courtyard is aglow under the moonlight.
Overhangs of tiled roofs protect the buildings from harsh afternoon sun. Diamond-shaped tiles at the far end blend well with Chinese-style slightly curved roofing on either side of the pool.Tiled roofs with slightly upturned eaves are in keeping with the home’s Chinese character. The buildings make use of large structural timbers for primary support of the roof tiles.
The center courtyard has been the heart of family life and one of the most important elements of cluster home design since time immemorial. It brings joy to the family and supplies every part of the home with fresh air.
Here, everything exists for a good reason. Among others, a stone paver patio adjacent to the family’s ancestral home serves as a venue for morning tea. Nearby, the swimming pool brings the health benefits of good exercise. They’re there for the taking. Overall, it is a piece of architecture designed for the salubrious lifestyle of an extended family.
The second-floor balcony looks out over the pool and garden landscapes to the further side. The wood deck in itself is reminiscent of Thai-style homes in earlier times.
Baan Gongsi is a well-crafted home, one made with attention to detail and quality to provide safety and protection against external disturbances. The floor plan offers smooth transition from one area to another. There’s a welcome room with patches of greenery connected to a stone paver patio leading to the Moon Door that’s the house’s main entrance.
From there, a stone paver garden pathway provides access to the main villa and nearby annexes. The center courtyard itself lies protected by a lacy canopy of mature trees making every day an enchanting experience. Because it’s situated amid the bustle of the city center, the home relies on plenty of lush vegetation to protect against noises and air pollution.
The interior features open-concept living spaces that stretch from the dining area to sitting room to the library and, beyond, the veranda at the far end.The bathroom features common elements of a contemporary style with a minimalist feel to it. The shower section is semi-outdoor reminiscent of a traditional Thai-style home. Floor tiles with antique patterns complement cool-toned whites on the walls.Lush greenery adds a refreshing touch of nature to the center courtyard.
As for build quality, real wood is the material of choice and one of the most outstanding features of the house. What makes it aesthetically pleasing is the slightly curved eaves characteristic of Chinese architecture. Needless to say, it’s a wholesome place where nature and culture coexist in peaceful harmony, a home beaming with pride.
The Moon Door, adapted to sport a more contemporary look, provides access to the cluster home environment that lies beyond.A street view of the home showcases the gracefully curved gable roof overhangs characteristic of traditional Chinese architecture.A stand-alone house of Buddha serves as a reminder of Thai architecture in earlier times.[Left] Concrete footing protects timber piles from humidity that could pose a threat to the home in the long term. / [Right] Primary roofing support is crafted the old-fashioned way utilizing of large structural timbers. The crescent-shaped cutout at the top of the pole allows the ridge beam to rest securely for extra durability.
Marketing/Advertising Cookies – used to remember and process the relevance to your website visit in order to personalize contents shown including optimization of commercial advertising placements. For instances, we use this type of cookies to display commercial advertisements related to user’s attributes and interests as well as to limit how many times should a user see repeated advertisement in order to optimize and measure marketing activities. อ่านเพิ่มเติม
